There are famous people who are only famous for being, well, famous. Every cook is a celebrity chef on TV. In decades past restaurateurs had immense credentials before becoming legendary owners. They’re gone but not forgotten by this venerable scribe.

The colorful faux “Prince Romanoff” was a bit even before my typing time, but I was privileged to know both venerated fathers of L.A. haute cuisine. Danish born perfectionist Ken Hansen, creator of Scandia on the Sunset Strip where no freezer existed, and a chicken plucker and fresh fish scaler, worked full shifts and nary a superstar would be seated without a jacket from 1946 til the place changed hands and faded away in the late ’80s. His charming counterpart was the ultimate maitre d’, Alex Perino, who borrowed a few thousand from admirers and proceeded to rule over legendary Perino’s elegant service and culinary staff from 1932 to ‘65 when he retired and the Wilshire Boulevard landmark was sold to less diligent hands that soon milked the fame dry.

Scandia did many things well and was noted for its array of fresh-made breads including an irresistible pumpernickel toast. Here’s the simple secret recipe so you can try it at home. You’ll need a loaf of un-sliced, frozen pumpernickel bread, a cup of butter, 2 crushed garlic cloves (to taste preference), and ½ cup of grated Parmesan cheese. Pre-heat oven to 275 degrees. With an ultra- sharp knife, slice bread very thinly, melt butter and blend in garlic and cheese, then brush one side of slices with mixture and bake in single layers on un-greased baking sheets about 15-20 minutes til crisp. Serve warm. Recipe makes about 35 savory slices.

Movie names like Jack Larue, Slapsy Maxey, Roy Rogers, and even Mickey Rooney lent their names to the food biz but only film writer and director Preston Sturges actually opened an immense place just so he could hang out late nites with cronies. The Players was around for a dozen golden-era years until 1953 when the gin well ran dry.

Some of you will recall Art and Helen Johnson’s venerable Tick Tock family restaurants in Hollywood and Toluca Lake where the food was ample and nourishing, the wall clocks numerous and accurate, and the kitchen so meticulous that I once suggested that I could roll on the kitchen floor without smudging my shirt and slacks. It was only a slight exaggeration.

My favorite Italian dinner dates during the ‘60s and ‘70s were at Emilio’s Ristorante at Melrose and Highland in Hollywood. The pastas, wines, and service were superior but the main attraction was ebullient owner/host Emilio Baglioni who charmed and disarmed patrons by playing his concertina between courses in cozy dining rooms where the walls were jammed with photos of celebrity guests and the beaming host. When I went on the air, Emilio was the first to sign on as a sponsor and I didn’t even pitch the idea.

There were many famed hosts but the switch of notoriety from front man to executive chef began in earnest when egocentric Patrick Terrail realized his cooking wouldn’t cut it at Ma Maison on Melrose in 1973 and hired on a charismatic and ambitious young chef named Wolfgang Puck who would eventually move on to his original Spago: The rest is restaurant history still in the making…. Among Terrail’s eccentricities was to admit nobody without a reservation even though Ma Maison was unlisted with information. Getting the number became Hollywood’s favorite game of hide and seek. The elusive host could also coddle celebs and made a casual style of fusion cooking known as California French nouvelle cuisine a culinary happening.

There are more tales to tell but enough nostalgia for one column. Even in this era of celebrated chefs and cookie-cutter corporative chains, the food service business has its independent heroes. Brent’s award-winning Delicatessen and Restaurant at Parthenia and Corbin in Northridge is a prime example under its patriarch-founder Ron Peskin, who has been at the helm of what became the greater L.A. area’s outstanding deli, having prospered for over four decades. Everyday the kitchen staff cooks up 16 briskets, 24 roasting turkeys, 500 pounds of potatoes, 250 pounds each of corned beef, pastrami, and much more.

The entire Peskin clan is involved with Brent Peskin, after whom proud papa Ron named the deli when Brent was a tot, now managing the Northridge location. Breakfast is served anytime and the meaty sandwiches are piled high on great breads or Kaiser rolls. They cater parties and events of all sizes and regulars know that patience is a virtue nite or day because Brent’s is invariably busy. Once seated, the staff sets a swift service pace. There’s plentiful adjoining self-parking. For more info on hours and menus at the original as well as the family’s Westlake Village deli, log on to brentsdeli.com. Pass the mustard!

Fortunately, new arrivals enjoy the same outstanding cuisine, attentive service, and sensible prices as longtime patrons.

Nobody departs ‘til totally sated and every meal is a genuine deal whether you savor seafood, chicken, or a generous cut of tender, tasty-aged beef, including the elusive culotte cut from Bric’s broiler. The Ramp even serves a full pound of hard-to-find meaty frog legs. Tempting starters, heaping fresh salads, and steaming home style soup; fried zucchini, steamed clams, and garlic toast are all part of Gary and Shelly’s ultimate dining experience. Be sure to consult the sweets selection before you ask for the modest tab. You can pay twice the price elsewhere for this memorable style of dining pleasure.

For good measure the cozy, casual Ramp is also open for lunch. There‘s a full bar and Bric‘s impressive selection of premium vintages is available at nominal prices by the glass or bottle.

There’s self parking and reservations are suggested. Aim your family limo north to the east Valley’s friendliest food place, Gary Bric’s Ramp, located at 7730 N. Hollywood Way. — at the Golden State Frwy Ramp.

I was vaguely aware of the original narrow, cramped Golan location in Van Nuys before the move to its current spacious, free standing spot in a former chain family restaurant replete with visible, surrounding patron parking. There’s seldom a wait for a comfy window booth so reservations are unnecessary.

Open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner until 10 p.m. daily, the mood is relaxed at the well-worn but well-maintained place where the menu includes Kosher Chinese cuisine and popular entrees like the platter of tasty, fork tender Brisket of Beef abundantly served with a chopped greens salad, rice and peas, $14.95.

Kosher meats cost more than conventional cuts as do other items so menu prices reflect the difference.

My closest friend on the planet and I celebrate his December birthday with annual reservations at the Tam O’Shanter Inn Los Feliz landmark when the carolers sing in the Christmas season. Michael savors Lawry’s Prime Rib while I invariably order the broiled Sea Bass. We wash down the feast with Pinot Grigio. This time my buddy was feeling adventurous and asked our lovely young server to recommend a special vintage by the glass. The singers were nearby so I missed most of their chat but heard her praise a new wine that had become her personal favorite and that sounded fine to Michael. When she presented the wine Mike urged me to have a sip. I did and shuddered at the sharp edge and bitter aftertaste. He didn’t like the wine either but just sat it aside and indulged in the chocolate soufflé dessert. The shocker came with the steep $14.50 charge for that server‘s “personal favorite” wine; add to the 20% gratuity and it was an $18 bump. Next year he’ll be less trusting of a pretty smile. Never hesitate to ask the price of a potential pleasure.

There’s no question of what gifts Gregg Hunter craves. My life is abundant and material needs are few. I possess all the gadgets, DVDs, musical CDs, and biographies I can shelve and enjoy. There are ample provisions in the pantry and a bottle or three of my favorite vintages in the wine rack. The “ranch” — as we call home — is looking good, and the Hunter “zoo” annex belongs to three-year-old Milo, the adorable Yorkie. I am aging but with little loss of culinary curiosity and cultural enthusiasm. After half a century, I continue to welcome weekly print and broadcast deadlines. Best of all, I am blessed with faithful friends.

In short, I am a fortunate and blessed being.

However, there remains one fervent concern to be dealt with before I hang the Yuletide stockings. The Palate avidly longs to bottle up the lively holiday spirits bubbling over during this special season before it all goes flat and vanishes for another year. We’ve known better — and lesser – times, but as an observant sage declared, “When the going gets tough, the tough get going.” So I’ll endeavor to store my precious holiday elixir in much the manner vintners store premium wines until the inevitable morning after when the frosting is stale, once shiny pines are shedding, and this heartfelt greeting has been filed or tossed away with the dozens of Hallmark rhymes you’ll receive. Then if headlines or deadlines attempt to overwhelm, I’ll uncork a few wondrous wafts to remind me of how warm and generous people were to one another way back in December ‘11.

Of course, so rare an essence should not be hoarded. I intend to spread it around like a fresh glimpse of sunshine on a dreary day or fertilizer on a brown and barren lawn. Then we’ll get a special “glow on” and hang out together as we cling to the gleaming holiday spirit all year long.

For good measure I’ll send a special scent of home to our deserving men and women overseas. We can surely spare that much for our troops who’ve given so much for the USA. Hurry home, heroes!

So all right already — I’m actually hoping to discover invaluable treasures beneath colorful but frail ornaments. Well, far greater wonders have been wrought in Christmas past. Why crave a loaf of bread when we might own the grocery store?

In this final column for the season, the Palate wishes one and all a delectable holiday with a fervent prayer for “peace on earth, good will to men.”

Some holi -daze dining hints. The Carolers are making their harmonic way around the Tam O’Shanter singing traditional and popular songs of the season. There’s no sur-charge for the music and they talented group sounds especially wonderful with a Prince Charles slab of prime rib or prime beef steak and Yorkshire pudding on your platter. The Palate also favors the leg of lamb and rotisserie roasted duckling. The menu is familiar and fine though prices have escalated here (and many places) of late. There are a number of new staff faces. When our sweet young server thoughtfully inquired whether I had visited the Los Feliz landmark before it brought laugher all around. I not only knew the late founder, Lawrence Frank, but have staged more than 20 annual “40th” birthday bashes there At one time I emanated a popular luncheon broadcast at “the celebrity table” in the cozy, colorful, turn of the 20th century restaurant. So I go way back with the family-owned Lawry’s place, but it was the Tam, not the Palate, that’s in its it’s eighth decade – Two more positive notes. .One— there’s attendant parking and, two, there’s a full bar. Oops, I almost failed to mention that reservations are always a smart idea here.

Yuletide parties and shopping sprees often mean empty tables in otherwise packed food establishments. If you’ve been frustrated in getting reservations to that extravagant place where the rich and famous mingle, this may be your lucky day. Whatever your destination on New Years Eve go with reservations and a designated driver.

My nomination as the most improved chain restaurant of the year goes to the Los Feliz Blvd. showcase branch of The Sizzler is.located just a busy block or two east of the Tam Long a favorite salad bar the place has finally become a dinner house with its much improved ambiance, service staff and, especially the entrée menu preparation. Steaks, ribs, chicken, lobster tail and fish are perfectly cooked to order without the former over-abundance of tenderizers. Serve yourself soup bowls are no longer salt laden and the new dinner rolls are frresh and tasty. Baked potatoes are twice their former size and even the cheese toast is good. My favorite specialty is the truly gigantic butterrflied and crisdpy deeo-fried shrimp

The sumptuous salad bar remains thestar attraction and the appetizer display includes thte makings fotr tacos and chicken wings. Soft ice cream is there for the coning and thte beverage chart includes bottled beer and wine. Prices start at $9.95and top at $14.95 andit’s a solid value. Egg dishes are featured at the Sunday Brunch counter. Therre’s always something to satisfy any appetite. Re-discover the rreneewed Sizzzler soon.

Shakers Restaurants have been on the Glendale and South Pasadena family dining scene since 1970. For no recalled reason I hadn’t visited the venerable location at 801 N. Central Ave. for at least a decade til the other week-day when a friend suggested we lunch there.

The well-maintained corner restaurant has changed very little with the years. There’s adjoining self-parking, we were warmly greeted, and the menu has been expanded to include currently popular specialties. Breakfast is served anytime, and the California Omelet with tomato, onion, mushrooms, bell peppers, and Jack cheese topped with avocado and sour cream was nicely presented and satisfying with hash browns and choice of toast, $8.95. My companion had the special green salad topped with grilled BBQ chicken and was very pleased with the dish served with hash browns and choice of toast, priced under $11.

Dinner specials are varied: all American entrees served between 5 and 9 p.m., priced from $9.95 to $12.95 excluding beverage and dessert. Family owned Shakers has a rich heritage since the original Salt Shakers and the upscale Shaker Mountain Inn ran their course. There’s a kiddies menu; major credit cards are accepted; beer and wine are available. Don’t wait as long as the Palate did to pay the fine casual dining place a visit.

If you long for an up-close visit to Hollywood’s golden era, look no further than Dan Tana’s Italian Restaurant located at 9071 Santa Monica Blvd. at Doheny in West Hollywood…. One of the city’s top-rated late nite (dine until 1 a.m.) haunts of the real celebrity crowd, owner operated Dan Tana’s has retained its retro aura (cushy red leather booths) and classic menu for decades (thick steaks, tender veal, chicken parmigan, or superlative meatballs and spaghetti)….

Approach with a hearty appetite, reservations, and a platinum credit card. The veteran waiter staff gives every party the star treatment, and the crowd is bound to be sprinkled with famous faces at their favorite watering hole.

The Brown Derby and Chasen‘s are Hollywood history, but the good old Musso & Frank Grill continues its pricey a la carte ways at 8264 Hollywood Blvd. just up the star sidewalk from Grauman‘s Chinese Theatre and other prime tourist destinations.

A bar that evokes Bogart or Welles at cocktail time … and a menu thick as a phonebook known by heart by the venerable service staff are just part of the M&F dining adventure. Order a prime beef steak and that’s exactly what you get. An omelet tells the same story. Potatoes or toast costs extra. It’s a nostalgic journey, but anything from the grill is cooked to order and tender to the palate nite. There’s paid, lighted self-parking behind the restaurant, and reservations are smart.

Think it over first. For a lot of sensible people the holiday should be fun and not involve kitchen drudgery. A call for reservations can do the trick.

The Palate doesn’t pretend to know one turkey from another; just pass the white meat and dressing my way and, if the price is right, I’m satisfied not to have bowls of leftovers in the fridge. Even a great dressing is best one time rather than reheated four days later.

If you really prefer to serve at home, there’s another sensible anti-labor idea. Consult an operation like Marie Callender’s for a turkey breast or ham feast that’s ready to heat and eat for four to six appetites at a total cost of $99.99 including apple-sage dressing, fire roasted yams, fresh mashed potatoes with gravy, veggies, cornbread, a whole pumpkin or apple pie, and coffee. Marie offers four other holiday feast selections, so check ‘em out at the Toluca Lake store located at 10050 Riverside Dr. or the Glendale location at 707 N. Pacific Ave. Both restaurants will be open from 12 noon to 5 p.m. for dining room or pick-up convenience.

Some holiday storage tips: Wrap celery in aluminum foil to refrigerate and keep potatoes from budding by adding an apple to the storage bag or bin.

Happy Thanksgiving.

Portions are more than generous and pricing is moderate. The service is prompt and friendly, and the Gold Star stays open ’til 11 nitely. Take out and drive thru orders are popular here. John stopped by for another pastrami before they hit the rainy Sunday highway. I’ll wager it didn’t make it past the state line.

Also on the couples’ “must go back” list was the venerable El Charro Mexican Restaurant at 3741 Verdugo Rd. in Montrose. Beyond the inviting old dining booths, there’s a “Cheers” style bar. Its magic eludes the Palate, but the ground beef tacos are good and hot, and the prices are right. Good service and adjoining parking add to the experience.

The original #1 char burger goes for $5.95 with crispy fries and a beverage available with tein beef patties at $6.95. The veggie version comes on a toasted wheat bun topped with crisp lettuce, tomato, cucumber, grilled or raw onions and sprouts, $4.85. You might opt for an albacore tuna, $5.75, or grilled pastrami with melted Swiss cheese, tomato, caramelized onions and mustard, $5.75. Grilled chicken breast with lettuce, bacon, and tomato atop toasted sourdough is $6.45.

Salads range from $3.95 for garden greens to $6.95 for a version of Cobb with freshly chopped and crumbled goodies and grilled chicken breast. A side of fries is $1.80 and onion rings are $1.95.

Kiddies under 10 favor special $3.95 burgers, chicken tenders, or grilled cheese. The stores are immaculate with smiling staffers.

The Habit more than lives up to its motto: “There’s no substitute for quality.” For a list of locations, log on at www.habitburger.com