Gregg Hunter’s Newspace

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On hiatus since the Matterhorn Chef was shuttered in ‘06, award winning Chef Ueli Huegli has re-emerged at the newly christened Swiss Chef in Valley Glen. The former San Remo Restaurant at 13727 Victory Blvd., west of Woodman, has undergone a cheerful interior remodeling to provide an inviting setting for the veteran restaurateur’s hearty if uneven menu of mostly traditional German, Italian, Swiss and Continental dishes. Serving nitely and for luncheon on Fridays, the Swiss Chef has attained liquor, beer and wine licenses for its full-service bar.

Among starters, mostly $8, the Mozzarella Caprese and the creamy clam soup were delicious to the last bite. Generous main portions, some of them rich, heavy and worthy of sharing, are well prepared and presented, accompanied with fresh veggies and are priced medium to steep levels. The Palate‘s $17 Veal Marsala entrée was fork tender and very tasty, but my companion’s $18 ample serving of Sauerbraten was less successful and we observed that a hot plate does not necessarily assure equally hot food.

Desserts are $8 and we shared a fruity slice of raspberry cheesecake, which was sugary and unexceptional. Getting a cup of really hot coffee proved a challenge that was never fully met.

All in all, the primary experience at the Swiss Chef was positive and it‘s good to have Chef Huegli back in his rightful culinary domain. There’s parking behind the restaurant. For reservations and info, dial (818) 904-1500.

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The Curious Palate

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