By Max Jacobson
The Southern California Restaurant Writers recently honored Maximilian’s Restaurant of North Hollywood with its prestigious Four Star Award, which signifies excellence in every aspect of a restaurant, including food, service and ambience.
Even a casual visit will illustrate that this award has been earned with style and pride. The restaurant is housed in an elegant garden, with an elegant, even lush landscape, boughs strung with lights, and a burbling fountain to relax the guests.
Another option is to dine in the charming, cozy house alongside the garden, which has a bar, kitchen and white tablecloths, the tables a civilized distance apart from one another. One might start a dinner at the bar, sipping an Austrian Gruner Veltiner, or a Hungarian Furmint. It is a touch of Mittel Europa in North Hollywood.
Sitting down to dine in the softly lit main dining room, or in a private room graced with a mural depicting Hungarian village life, one is plied with a parade of Austrian, German and Hungarian delicacies. The chef, Laszlo Bossanyi, is a constant presence in the kitchen and dining room who will oversee your meal with care and passion.
A relish tray and korozott, a paprika-rich Hungarian cheese spread, is one way to begin. Chef Laszlo is a master of soups; hearty cabbage, an unctuous mushroom soup, gulyas, a ruddy Hungarian beef soup served in a bogracs, or iron kettle, or perhaps halaszle, a fragrant fish soup.
Maximilian’s has a new menu with small plates to tempt you, such as egg with steamed baby spinach in a roasted pike-perch vinaigrette, or Sant Andreas cheese tapenade with green farro in walnut oil.
The Hungarian cucumber salad is a must, and don’t miss the white asparagus, just coming into season this April. Main dishes include wild caught salmon with a red wine reduction on seasonal vegetables, and a classic Wiener schnitzel. The house black sausage, unpronounceable in Hungarian (it’s disznotoros, if you’re game to try), is amazing.
Maximilian’s Garden is located at 1330 Weddington St. in the NoHo Arts District. For information or reservations, call at (818) 760-1300 or visit the Web site at firstname.lastname@example.org.