We want to Talk about the singular Widder Hotel in Zurich, the last stop on David’s solo sojourn last fall. This superior and imaginative hotel had dazzled me a few years back. Now let’s try to bring you there:

THE WIDDER

The Middle of the Riddle of the Widder: The entrance, in the center of the nine original buildings, behind those windows, imagination runs wild.

DAVID: I have traveled the world for over 50 years for pleasure and for business. I have stayed in dozens of cities, towns and villages, in hundreds of hotels, and if I had only one to choose as my last stay, it would be the Widder in Zurich, Switzerland. First reason (and second and third): General Managers Mr. and Mrs. Jan E Brucker who have assembled and trained a team of young, pleasant, helpful men and women who grant your every wish almost before you’ve requested it. Next, the Widder is the epitome of style, comfort, and conveniences.

Speaking of comfort and convenience, getting to Zurich, with the aid of my Swiss Rail Pass, was a piece of gateau! I had zipped from Geneva to Lucerne in First Class on the swift, silent, sexy Swiss rail and two days later my Pass (courtesy of L.A. based Maja Gartmann), allowed me to walk onto the snazzy train, choose any seat, and ride without a care to my destination, Zurich and the wonderful Widder.

I was greeted with warmth, escorted up the unique glass and steel elevator, and was shown into my Suite 210. It is magnificent with a huge living room intricately paneled with lustrous, richly-grained wood on walls, ceiling, and floor. An enormous matching armoire covers one wall; another holds a glass and chrome desk with WiFi and a Nespresso system. An emerald-green suede couch and chair face a Bang & Olufsen outfit providing television (lots of English channels), great sound, radio, and CD and DVD players. My bedroom sported another TV, another huge armoire, and a bed with a remote control that raises and lowers sections for supreme comfort. A giant bathroom with dark-green veined marble and mirrors galore includes the central mirror that comes to life at a touch to reveal a TV showing through. In actual fact, I wouldn’t mind at all living in Suite 210 for quite a long while…. (JJ comments: Me neither, with its separate WC and sink.)

Mr. Brucker’s note welcomed me; his Veuve Clicquot and living white orchids made me wish once more Jacqueline was with me. Later, Jan, an utterly charming and urbane gent who is also Chairman of Swiss Deluxe Hotels, told me, “It is the fact that the original nine buildings dating from the 1200s have been meticulously combined and totally restored, modernized to form one perfect hotel. It opened in 1995 as the Widder (‘Ram’ in English, named after the Society of Butchers who once inhabited the original Guild Hall in the 1500s).” Today, 42 rooms and seven suites with no two identical make up the Five Star Hotel, with a superb location. I wandered ancient streets around the Widder, and the modern world of major designers and zillions of watches lining the main street that lead down from the rail station to Lake Zurich. On another day, I took the short walk from the Widder across a bridge over the Limmat River fed by the lake and strolled around the very old section which is much more Bohemian in nature.

Through all this sightseeing my appetite was fueled and satisfied one night at the formal gourmet Widder Restaurant featuring the delicious work of Executive Chef Alexander Kroll. I chose the Chef’s three-course menu starting with a lovely filet of John Dory with goose liver and crunchy hazel nuts. My first wine was the lush ‘09 Chateauneuf du Pape. For my main, a slow-cooked goulash of tender chunks of venison with rich gravy, red cabbage, bacon, and mushroom. A hearty 2005 Rioja accompanied. The dessert was called B&W — dark and white chocolate in various forms. Ruinart rose champagne was the finishing touch.

JACKIE: I peacefully visualize the Widder, and its assortment of fantastic quarters, courtesy of Google.

DAVID: Sil vous plait; check out online sites for the Widder in Zurich and Swiss Rail Pass.

We’ll Travel….

The famous facade of the Hotel des Balance in Lucerne, Switzerland.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about a gem of a hotel, but David will do most of the chat. I left for home after Paris, but still have much affection for the Hotel des Balances from memorable prior visits. Ah, we can’t always be everywhere … unless you are David.

DAVID: If location were its only advantage, Hotel des Balances in Lucerne, Switzerland would still be a real winner. Its front facade, decorated with paintings in the style of Hans Holbein, has sat in the heart of the Old Town since the year 1200. Its back (and my room) is right on the River Reuss, which flows into Lake Lucerne with the Rigi and the Pilatus Mountains beyond also in plain view, as are the hundreds of large white swans, the sea gulls, the famous Chapel Bridge, the Water Tower, and the splendid Jesuit Church. Since it became the Balances in 1807, the hotel has welcomed a host of celebrities including George Bernard Shaw, Princess Louise of Baden, Queen Wilhemine of the Netherlands, and your humble correspondent, myself. Having said all this, location is just the beginning of the story. Balances CEO Peter E. Busser and the young, talented staff insure a stay that earns every one of its four stars, and then some. Recently remodeled, the rooms are contemporary, bright, spotless, and the last word in comfort. Mine had two balconies overlooking all the landmarks I’ve mentioned, and an interior with huge gilt-framed mirrors, lots of space for clothes, a huge bed, and furnishings that could be welcomed in an art museum. Downstairs, one flight below reception, is the gourmet restaurant, domain of Chef Andreas Fluri, where I enjoyed daily breakfast and a memorable dinner – more about that later. There is also an adjoining bar and lounge where arriving guests may “spend” their complimentary cocktail card; I did on my first evening and was treated to a combination of sparkling Prosecco with a touch of elderberry syrup and crushed fresh mint. Delightful and refreshing. Bordering this handsome space is a terrace on the river, perfect for a lunch or good-weather drink.

Now, a word or two about Lucerne itself, one of my favorite towns. It’s all here: the cobblestone streets that wind from the Wine Market to the Corn Market, wandering past shops and cafes and restaurants and hotels and, of course, watches – Swiss watches from hundreds to thousands of Swiss Francs. The streets end at the Swan Place across from the Lake Lucerne. If you walk along a few minutes in one direction you are at the rail station; a bit longer in the other and you come to the enormous and emotional Lion Monument: a magnificent beast, wounded and dying and crying.

Point your camera in any direction, at any corner, and you will capture a wonderful memory. The day before I left, there was a sports exhibition and a “stop cancer” drive. The next day there would be a marathon through the Old Town. But tonight, for me, there is dinner in the Balances Restaurant, the best in Lucerne.

My meal got off to a splendid start thanks to the Chef’s gift: three bite-sized delicacies, Scallop, Scampi, and Lobster, each cooked to the split second of perfection. Next, a fillet of Pike-Perch: moist, flaky and – again — perfect. My main was veal steak, simply grilled with olive oil and pepper and accompanied by a superb pumpkin risotto with chunky Boletus mushrooms. An encore of my Champagne accompanied a large spoonful of each of the house ice creams – vanilla, sour cream, coconut, and chocolate. I was so stuffed even the next morning I had to struggle to breakfast. But Balances’ is so unique, I couldn’t resist. The buffet consists of small plates, each containing: smoked salmon or herring or salami or cheeses, cherry tomatoes, cuke slices, and more. Almost Japanese in concept. You choose the plates you want and one of the lovely servers brings coffee and offers eggs. My egg white omelet with onions and mushrooms was the best I’ve ever had — including my own.

The symbol for Hotel Des Balances is a scrawled “B” and its motto is: Enjoy the “Ins-B-Ration” moments. Believe me; I did.

We’ll Travel….

Majestic Plane trees of the medieval Cloitre Saint-Louis in Avignon.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about two very special venues in France, both unique and universal. I had previously visited both these enchanting cities and have delicious memories. However, I needed to return home after Paris, home that offers the universally unique Toluca Lake Open House (this coming Friday!), a tour unto itself.

DAVID: The 150 miles from Antibes, my weeklong stop on the French Riviera, whizzed by as my leased Renault Clio took me into the ancient heart of Avignon surrounded by its medieval ramparts. Great little dependable car and so easily and economically supplied via my new discovery: Wheels in Europe and Renault Eurodrive. Please check out their websites.

JACKIE: When I think of Avignon I dwell on the fragrant couscous tagines in the casual university restaurant. Let’s see what David dwells on (Did you watch The Borgias?).…

DAVID: Now to the city of the Popes, who occupied Avignon from 1309 to 1423 during the Catholic schism. So I was compelled to spend my three days at The Cloitre Saint-Louis, constructed over a 100-year period ending in 1738. Before it became today’s four-star, modern hotel in medieval dress, it was a monastery, a convent, a military hospital, and the National Theatre Center (which still occupies the northern wing). The contemporary wing has a roof top swimming pool. My enormous accommodation had the original stone walls and arches and an emperor-sized bed with a five-step walk up to a large sitting room surrounded by centuries old stone and with a sky-high beamed ceiling. The floors were all burnt-red tiles, yet it was modern and comfy. Outside, the buildings surrounded a large park with a fountain and six majestic Plane trees…. After a weekend of wandering the fascinating city, I met Alain List, congenial manager of the Hotel Cloitre Saint-Louis, who kindly showed me other rooms and the well-equipped meeting room. All in all, a perfect place to spend a few days in amazing Avignon.

ON TO ANNECY

Thrilling view from my balcony at L’Imperial Palace in Annecy.

A sudden storm and heavy fog added an hour to my drive, but my Renault Eurodrive Clio and her excellent TomTom GPS performed like champions. The sun was out to light up my destination, the great white edifice, L’Imperial Palace, a hundred year old structure completely re-modeled in 1990 to become a contemporary version of the Grand Hotels of times gone by. Today it is a three-in-one combination of 99 rooms and suites comprising the four-star hotel in the center with adjoining casino on one side and banquet and conference rooms on the other. Quite a world unto itself and situated on a wooded park-like peninsula with Europe’s purest Lake Annecy stretching out behind the Palace to meet the French Alps looking close enough to touch. My balcony overlooked this glorious scene. The room, furnished in a modern version of Art Deco with polished woods and shining chrome, a real “wow-ee”! Unexpected extra, a complimentary mini-bar! After a bountiful buffet breakfast, I met with Laurence Mogli, the pretty lady who looks much too young for her position as head of PR and events planning, along with supervising production of brochures and all promotional material. We dined at the restaurant La Voile (The Veil), and she explained that the menu prices were deliberately moderate to encourage guests to sample their uncomplicated (but delicious) approach to French cuisine (Ah, my juicy lamb chops!). A quick trip to the casino, where I actually won a few Euros at roulette — just another touch of luck while staying at the Imperial Palace, a few minutes from the terrific old town of Annecy.

JACKIE: My Imperial memory is the peace one finds in the art filled park and the lake with Mont-Blanc in the distance. Have a virtual visit: http://www.hotel-imperial-palace.com.

I still have more Paris to share, especially the time in our terrific digs there. We found our dear apartment on: I Love Paris Apartments website. Hope you can find one too.

We’ll Travel….

The view from Hotel Lutetia overlooking a little park in front of Bon Marche with The Eiffel Tower in the distance.

As this Tolucan Times is a Restaurant Issue, we are eager to present two dreamy and delectable dining spots for your Paris wish list. Their cuisine is beautiful and beyond. The locations are majestic and historic hotels.

LE BRISTOL HOTEL’S “114, Faubourg”

Lunch on the Right Bank

DAVID: The address (#114) graces a street, Faubourg Saint-Honore, which began its illustrious life in 1715 and has become known as one of the most treasured in the world. Le Bristol Hotel shines its 5 Stars over this street of lavishly luxurious designer shops, antique stores, art galleries, and presidential residences. Until recently, in order to sample the cuisine of the Bristol’s gastronomic restaurant and its 3-Starred Chef Eric Frechon, most would have to afford all the other things that can be purchased on this famous street.

Now, however, there is a second, relatively reasonably priced restaurant — 114 faubourg — a sure sign that management recognizes the current economy.

JACKIE: Let me be crystal clear, the quality of 114, faubourg meets the standard always offered by the classic Bristol kitchen. It is as beautiful and comfortable a dining space that one could dream of. The flowered wall paintings put me in a dream state, while I savored the finest lunch I had in Paris. We chose the lower of 114’s two levels where we could view the kitchen and the deft dance of the staff, including young Chef Eric Desbordes, mentored by Chef Frechon. They gracefully produced the superb food. David will recommend.…

DAVID: JJ savored the preserved duck foie gras with spices, figs, and raisin jelly. Her Sole and fresh spinach with capers oil sauce, perfection. (She kept nibbling at my beautifully presented salad of crunchiest lettuce hearts, candied tomatoes with cream of anchovy sauce.) I had a wonderful fillet of veal with parmesan polenta. Then we had a delicious tour of the hotel, including the new spa near their indoor seascape pool.

Charming. Google and be transported.

LUTETIA HOTEL — QUEEN OF THE LEFT BANK

Dinner at the Paris

DAVID: Just steps around the corner from our Cherche Midi apartment, The Lutetia is our favorite Bank’s only grand hotel rated 4 Stars (Plus!) reflecting the “Belle Époque” and Art Deco periods. The Lutetia Bar has long been my personal favorite in Paris, and I’ve always paid at least one visit to sip champagne and listen to jazz or their wonderful pianist.

We had already lunched in the Lutetia Brasserie, typical but way above most. Jacqueline had her favorite Beef tartare (she has sampled many), and I had the world’s best oysters.

JACKIE: We were fortunate to join the Lutetia’s young, charming International Director of Sales, Marina De Frisching, for dinner in their renowned Paris Restaurant. Before our meal, Marina treated us to a peek at a few of the hotel’s otherworldly suites. Enormous spaces, with some of the best views in Paris, art-filled, full of surprising themes of Africa, Asia, tributes to women, and music. The Arman Suite was decorated by the sculptor Arman himself with the furniture resembling grand musical instruments. One has to see to believe. An entrance to a suite looks like a landing strip, with twinkle lights lining a long hall. Novel, with all the highest technology discretely tucked.

While eagerly heading to sample the cuisine of Michelin Star Chef Philippe Renard, we ogled the spa, the contemporary art, learned of their literary season, new Fumoir, where aficionados enjoy their cigar with a Cuban accent.

DAVID: Our talented young dinner companion travels constantly all over the world to convince clients what we already know: The Lutetia is a very special place indeed. We hope to stay here on our next trip over. But tonight belongs to the dinner and the wines of The Paris. Jackie is enchanted with langoustines surrounded by sea bass, marinated with pink grapefruit, pine nuts and avocado; Marina had a magnificent Brittany lobster; while I indulged Basque rack of pork with black truffle potatoes, and girolle mushrooms, and then dessert! A “chocolate experience” and a fruit fascination served in a mystic haze of (the fantasy of dry ice). Again, turn to the internet to taste the allure of this, “if the walls could talk” Hotel Lutetia in Paris.

We’ll Travel….

[Editor’s Note: This edition of “Travel with Lawrence and Lawrence” was originally intended to run on Sept. 28, but due to space issues and forgetfulness, it never saw the light of day. Here it is, straight from the vault of The Tolucan Times. As they say in Paris, better late than never!]

Hotel de Crillon, Paris

Chef Christopher Hache brings his star power to the glow of the shining Les Ambassadeurs Restaurant at Hotel de Crillon.

DAVID: Paris, the city of lights, is also the city of palaces. Some have become museums, some private homes and some fabulous hotels, like The Crillon, recently Awarded “Best City Hotel in the World 2011.” But first, a word about our own palace, our happy home in Paris. Our “palace” for three glorious weeks is on the Rue Cherche Midi on our favorite Left Bank surrounded by marvelous cafes, shops and the elegant Bon Marche department store. The apartment is owned by Porter Scott, an American in Paris, who has a successful business managing and renting lovely places to stay in this city on the Seine. We lovingly recommend his I Love Paris website if you want to live like a native with all the conveniences of home.

JACKIE: Back to the Crillon, it was the palace owned by continuing Comtes of the same name who lived there from 1788 until 1907. It then became one of the most important hotels in Paris. It reigns over the Place de la Concorde with the Obelisk of Luxor dating from the eighth century BC and its glorious fountains and proximity to the Tuileries gardens, the Louvre, the Champs Elysees and the epitome of fashion and chic, gracing the Right Bank shops, of the great designers on the Rue du Fauborg Saint Honore.

The restaurant of the Crillon is Les Ambassadeurs, the home of the new and talented (as he is young and handsome) Chef, Christopher Hache. He is responsible for a fresh and exciting and more affordable menu, plus their first Michelin Star.

DAVID: This is the restaurant of your dreams, once the ballroom of the Counts and still the style of royalty. The décor is Louis XV (and he was no slouch when it came to elegance). There are five varieties of marble, crystal chandeliers and lovely frescoes on the ceilings. The cuisine has a lot of competition with the look. But it still wins the night! We started our winning night with lovely Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose Champagne. First of a parade of excellent wines selected by The Chief Sommelier, Jerome Moreau.

JACKIE: Pierre Jung, the enthusiastic and charming Director of Les Ambassadeurs restaurant, helped select our delicious and inventive menu and after dinner joined us for conversation that shed light on the excellence we enjoyed. The young leaders, from the staff out front and the kitchen staff, are good friends and work together, to make perfection of the whole experience. And they appreciate the kindness and considerate nature of the new owner, an eminent Saudi Prince, who is revitalizing the hotel, bringing it back to its original glory, but with ecology and technology to serve the community at large.

Delightful dessert of cotton candy and creativity.

I also must personally thank Pierre for allowing us to abandon our senses and bring us masterpiece desserts by the wonderful and whimsical Pastry Chef, Jerome Chaucesse. Picture chocolate with a secret tunnel filled with ice cream, lucky David. I almost shrieked with glee when I was served the pink cotton candy, over a structural cookie that held verbena sorbet, over sensual syrup filled with fresh peach slices. Like something out of Dr. Seuss, the truly most fantastical dessert I’ve ever had.

DAVID: So we leave Les Ambassadeurs with dreams of Chef surprises including Tempura Mussels, delightful courses of a unique roll of blue lobster from Brittany and mozzarella, Fois Gras of Duck with the teeniest mushrooms in the world, smoked butter (!), perfectly pink rack of lamb wrapped in crispy noodles, eggplant and quinoa, wine, wine, wine, French cheese with joyful jam and nut breads, and then the march of desserts, starting with little wrapped candies that turned out to be tart mint sorbet bits, tantalizing. A memorable and magnificent evening….

If Paris is within your possibilities – go all the way, visit a Palace, The Hotel Crillon and treat yourself to a once in a dream dinner at Les Ambassadeurs.

JJ AND DL: The economy dictates to us all. We arrived, at this palace, not by coach and four, but by bus, an easy, comfortable and safe means of transportation from and to almost any destination in Paris. And for tourists, using the money-saving Metro Card helps make Les Ambassadeurs more affordable. Back to reality, we’ll Travel…

Steak at 21, not just another steak.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about New York surprises — for both of us. I still don’t know how all our family and friends kept the NY trip a secret from David, but they did, and I think he was thrilled.

DAVID: Surprises are for birthdays, anniversaries — almost expected. But when they come out of the blue (Jet Blue), well folks, that is a surprise! My adorable wife (who is always a surprise) knocked my socks off by hi-Jackie-ing me on a flight to New York for two jam-packed, superbly planned weeks: special dinners, wine tastings, seeing friends and many Broadway shows that I was dying to see. More after she gets a word in edgewise…

JACKIE: At my 60th High School Reunion, a dear old friend offered me his apartment at The Phillips Club for two weeks. This perfect arrangement, just across the street from Lincoln Center, was a welcome blessing. As we walked in, Loretta Swit was coming out the revolving door. She lives at the Phillips when in NY, so it was possible for some quality time. During our stay, we enjoyed the bar menu at The Four Seasons, and a splendid lunch at Le Cirque made possible by amazing Internet deals.

DAVID: Hey, it was my surprise, so: Hooray for the Fourth of July fireworks viewed from Larry Storch’s apartment, where we met lovely Celeste Holm. And yippee for house seats to the breathtaking War Horse, Anything Goes, The Normal Heart, Priscilla Queen of the Desert and All’s Well That Ends Well in Central Park.

JACKIE: Then it was my turn for a surprise — a very special dinner at a very big deal, timeless restaurant.

The 21 Club

Lawrence and Lawrence dining under the memorable toys of the 21 Club.

DAVID: In the glory days of television, when every other program was not a reality show or CSI — but was instead Gunsmoke, Dick Van Dyke, Doris Day, Star Trek and an array of musical variety shows, with great stars like Danny Kaye, Fred Astaire, Judy Garland, Dean Martin — programmers were as different as the programs. There were teams consisting of professionals from ad agencies, sponsors and networks who worked with the writers, producers and stars to develop the best possible shows. I was lucky enough to be part of the team as a program supervisor with Procter & Gamble. We gathered at two major places to plan our annual strategy: in Los Angeles at the Bel Air Bar and in New York at The 21 Club, which is still alive, well, and flourishing. My surprise for JJ was a visit to this scene of my youth.

JACKIE: We sat under the fabled toys hanging from the ceiling and ordered rose champagne. I indulged with the famous 21 Caesar salad, chilled jumbo asparagus and perfect “Speakeasy” steak tartare. My fella gorged on a dozen assorted oysters followed by a huge picture perfect filet mignon with wild mushrooms on the side. The gorgeous desserts – “21” yums! The service was impeccable and the atmosphere, something to write home about —

DAVID: — which is what we’re doing. Back in the 1930s, the restaurant that once was a speakeasy attracted the affluent horsey set, including one Jay Van Urk, a top breeder who put his personal stamp on his favorite restaurant by donating the colorful figure of a jockey. It was soon joined by jockeys of other breeders. They became the distinctive symbol of “21” and have decorated the entrance ever since.

JACKIE: The toys that cover the ceiling of the Bar Room have become another major attraction. Donated by sports heroes, heads of major industries (and one by President John F. Kennedy: a model of the PT-109), they include replicas of American products, symbols of our culture and lifestyle. The Bar Room is also a Sports Hall of Fame with the helmets, bats, rackets and skates — stuff of stars like Jack Nicklaus, Chris Evert, Willie Mays and other heroes.

DAVID: All in all, the 21 Club is the perfect Manhattan place to see and to be seen. All while enjoying a sense of times gone by, along with cuisine that rivals the best of today.

JACKIE: Great fun to soak up a little history while mopping up your plate.

We’ll Travel …

Man’s best friend in London’s best bar (The Athenaeum).

JACKIE: We want to Talk about the grand finale of David’s spring in Britain sojourn. He loves this winter-fest so much that he has already booked a return in February 2012. And I, the cold-blooded Californian that I am, will hold down the homestead.

*(SURPRISES FOR DAVID: As I write, we’re preparing to go on a secret holiday of my planning. I’ll be Talking about it in my next Talk column, and just know that the next Lawrence and Lawrence will report on a glorious city in the USA. Shhhhh.)

Here he goes with the good reasons that make him keep coming back to England…

DAVID: The beginning of the end: I boarded the Heathrow Express at the airport and headed for London (fastest, least expensive, best way into the city). Destination: Piccadilly in Mayfair.

My first introduction to the Athenaeum Hotel occurred in 1979 in the bar, all warm and wood and whiskey. More varieties of Scotch than I had known existed. And a rare bottle as a gift if one could work through them all. I never did. But I fell in love with the hotel and became a happy member of its roster of guests, many from Hollywood and from the show business world I was then part of.

I schmoozed with Robert Wagner who was shooting episodes of Hart to Hart, joked with Dick Crenna there to do a TV movie (not mine; I was producing Helen and Teacher, which picked up Helen Keller’s life after The Miracle Worker and starred Mare Winningham and Blythe Danner — whose very young daughter Gwyneth Paltrow visited during our shoot). I loved seeing Natalie Wood, and wished when I grew up that I could be another Steven Spielberg — who was living at the Athenaeum while prepping a movie. I housed my stars in the luxurious Athenaeum apartments around the corner and made the hotel my headquarters in the ensuing years for other movies and miniseries I was producing.

Now, years later, I was back home. By sheer coincidence I was given the very same room I lived in for months at a time each time I was shooting. But — wow — what a difference the years have made! The only thing about Suite 305 that remains the same is the splendid view from my windows of the magnificent Green Park just across the road. Everything else is totally up to date in London City! Tastefully high tech and contemporary with a wall of mirrors framing an enormous flat screen TV and DVD player across from my huge bed with a four-poster frame of Lucite and chrome. The desk faces the floor to ceiling windows viewing the park and behind it, across the room, is a stunning surprise: a mirrored door opens to reveal a maxibar with a drawer containing everything from Grey Goose to peanuts to chips. Another drawer is a fridge stocked with fruit juices, bottled water, soft drinks, candy bars and beers. The last drawer is a freezer with ice cubes and (!) Ben and Jerry’s ice cream. Now, get this: Except for the alcohol, everything is absolutely complimentary — and restocked daily. What a treat, especially for families. Another pleasant surprise was discovering two old friends, John and Tony, members of the staff and still at the Athenaeum all these years later. Just like yours truly. I am grateful to others like Victoria Smalley, P.A. to General Manager Jonathan Critchard, both of whom welcomed me home; Darren Muylders, the admirable Concierge who got me into Hakkasan for lunch with my dear friend John Scott; and Susanne Wedden, who helped me with a special surprise for my sweet Jackie. Now it was time to whip out my Oyster Card (easiest and cheapest way to hop on buses and tubes) and brave the cold and rainy days. I hit all the old familiar places – Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square, The Tate Modern Museum, Royal Academy of Arts, and of course, Harrods (to buy something for the silent auction for Jackie’s then upcoming, now very successful, Actors and Others for Animals event honoring Betty White. Hope you didn’t miss it!).

Back to the warm and dry refuge of the family-owned, Five Star Athenaeum with its gym, sauna and steam room. And its fond, happy memories of another time, another life — no better than the one I’m living, but never to forget.

JACKIE: OK, I’m lucky enough to have experienced this classic hotel and for a change, David is not exaggerating. And, best of all, the Athenaeum is dog friendly!

We’ll Travel…

Stellar Ston Easton in England’s beautiful Somerset.

Jackie: We want to Talk about the grand finale of David’s winter tour in Great Britain. They don’t call it great for nothing.

However, when things go unexpectedly off, it’s called a “cock up.” Don’t ask: That’s what they say in England. David experienced one of his own — but not to worry; it all went right on the night (another British saying).

David: I was booked in for a two-night stay at one of the best-known country house hotels near Bath — Ston Easton Park. Suddenly, my second night became impossible: The entire property had been taken over for a big deal wedding. But thanks to Tom Baxter, Deputy General Manager, there was a silver lining on my cloudy day. I was offered refuge in any of the other hotels in the Von Essen Group. I chose nearby Bishopstrow House, no longer homeless, but suddenly afforded a happy hotel hop.

Ston Easton Park Hotel, Somerset

If my accommodation at this Palladian mansion, dating from 1740, was a peace offering, I surrendered with pleasure. One of 22 rooms was the grand suite I entered. Its two large windows overlooked the vast green parklands in front of the hotel where satisfied cows grazed. The room, large as a small house, featured a great canopied four poster bed, a lovely dressing table, carved fireplace, window seats for the view, a sitting area with flat screen TV and Wi-Fi and a warm bathroom.

In the hotel’s lounge, I was greeted by Oscar, the dark chocolate house Spaniel with wagging tail and furry toy clamped in his mouth. From the impressive Drawing Room, with handsome furnishings and crackling fire, I stepped out onto the rear terrace. Great trees guarded the lawns where daffodils were just beginning to fight their way up. The grounds eased down to the fast-moving River Norr that formed tiny waterfalls. Further along, I found the kitchen garden where a lot of the fresh produce finds it way to the dining room. Later I would follow for what proved to be an unforgettable dinner. Ston Easton’s Head Chef, Adam Cain, proves that youth is no deterrent to expertise. He is charming, effusive and very talented. Adam provided a starter of perfectly cooked hand dived scallops followed by loin of venison that was meltingly delicious. My choice of pudding was a trio of the best sorbets I have ever tasted: orange, peach and (to gasp over) fig. Applause, Adam!

Bishopstrow House, Wiltshire

About a half-hour drive took me to the second of my Von Essen hotels. Georgian Bishopstrow is what Americans dream of when they imagine the perfect country retreat. With lots of ivy framing its windows, the house sits in the midst of beautifully landscaped gardens along the River Wylye with swans galore. The lovely rooms are all different — all stylish and comfortable. Mine was on top of the world, up several staircases. I was afraid the porter would have a heart attack lugging up my Louis Vuittons stuffed with six weeks travel gear.

After a walk around the property and a survey of the attractive public rooms, I had a nice chat with the General Manager, Jason Thorley (all these guys with so much responsibility are so young!).

Then I visited the Halcyon Spa with its well-equipped fitness room, steam room, indoor pool — all perfect for relaxing after a trip to nearby Bath or Stonehenge or historic Longleat House. That evening, my dinner was in the contemporary Mulberry Restaurant after a drink by the fire in the Drawing Room. My excellent meal by Chef Frank Bailey started with beautifully under-cooked scallops, followed by a heavenly salad of mixed field greens, then a braised blade of beef that fell apart when touched by my fork and for a pudding, intensely flavored lemon and cherry sorbet.

Jackie: Meanwhile, I was home under my electric blanket. It’s hard enough, for my easily chilled self, to stay cozy in Sherman Oaks. For David, this was the perfect way to end his tour of a lovely part of Britain. Next time, weather permitting, I’m up for it.

We’ll Travel…

A traveler’s rest since the 12th century, the luxurious Castle Hotel.

Jackie: We want to Talk about the last lap of David’s solo trip in England. I may be a bit jealous about David’s affection for his new pal “Rennie.” This is his nickname for the adored Renault Megane that he leased from Renault Eurodrive. He won’t stop raving about this car (that is not available in the USA, yet). You might want to see about the program online before your next driving trip overseas. David carries on…

David: Rennie certainly handled brilliantly during the heavy downpour that drenched my drive from Falmouth to Exeter. (Good girl, Rennie!) We (the car and I) parked in the private lot in front of the impressive Victorian 4-star Rougemont, one of the 33 excellent hotels in the Thistle Group. The location is perfect, a short walk from shopping and restaurants, the railway station and the magnificent 12th century cathedral. The Rougemont boasts 98 accommodations — including suites. All the luxuries that have become necessities: in room WiFi, flat screen TV, super-comfortable bed, bath with powerful shower, coffee and tea making facilities, a big work desk — the whole bit. Hard to believe this hotel opened to a well-pleased public in 1879. Drake’s Restaurant, named in honor of Sir Francis Drake who, along with Richard III, had an association with Exeter, this is one of Britain’s most ancient and historical cities, well worth exploring. St. Peter’s Cathedral dates from 1050; William the Conqueror built his Castle of Rougemont here in 1068. Today Exeter is a vibrant university city with loads of young people and an attractive mixture of the very old and the very new. The Thistle Rougemont proved to be the perfect base for wandering the sights and pleasures of this picturesque city of Exeter.

Jackie Comments: David does roll in the delectable details; he adores great hotels and the newest snappy cars — such an adjustment for me, just a bed and bath girl. Now another gem from Dave …

The Castle Hotel, Taunton, Somerset

David: “Very few Americans come to Somerset,” sadly commented Kevin McCarthy, Director of the breathtaking Castle Hotel in Taunton (perfect spot for exploring said Somerset). Kevin, a most congenial and loyal supporter of his home, entertained me for quite a long time over coffee in the “Snug” of the Castle. Americans know the Cotswolds, the Lake District, Cornwall, naturally London, but few know the joys of this lovely district. As “Rennie” my Renault rolled me into the too-green-to-be-true landscape of this beautiful and varied county, I found it hard to believe it is not visited more often by my countrymen. Somerset eases down from the Mendip Hills to the north where the fascinating Cheddar Caves and famous cheese are found along with Wells, the country’s smallest cathedral city. From the west of the Bristol Channel and Exmoor, one plunges into the great basin of the Levels with its lakes, wildlife, livestock and lovely flowers.

A truly glorious area, which should not be overlooked by any visitor to England.

Now, about the Castle Hotel, and my totally wonderful suite called Blackdown (another range of Somerset hills). My two-night home was enormous with four huge windows overlooking the front of the castle on one side and the romantic side garden — built on three levels — out another window. An emperor sized bed (a veritable foe to insomnia), dressing room and massive bath — all beautifully furnished and decorated. Mine was one of 44 luxury accommodations all with free WiFi, flat screen TV with Sky channels and accompanied by superb service. I could see why the Castle is a leading venue for conferences and for weddings. The Castle Restaurant where I had full English breakfast each morning has been included in the top 40 best British restaurants in the Good Food Guide. Chef Jamie Rafferty uses ingredients of the finest quality: fish and seafood from Brixham, game from Exmoor, fruits and veggies (grown exclusively by a local source) and Somerset artisan cheeses. To compliment the cooking is one of Britain’s top 10 wine lists built by the hotel owner, Kit Chapman. Lighter but delicious, fare is served in the contemporary Brazz brasserie.

So, what do think, Jackie?

Jackie: I think you’re a bit much, but a visit to Taunton is tempting.

Til then, we’ll Travel….

Local artist’s rendition of wonderful Tresanton in St. Mawes.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about landmarks like Land’s End. Very close to the end of the world – certainly the end of the land — when you’re in Great Britain. David loves an unforgettable spot called St. Mawes, and here’s why:

DAVID: This harbor side village sits on the Cornish Coast and is the spot where an array of fishing boats and yachts set anchor. I set my Renault Megane in front of the star of St. Mawes, Hotel Tresanton. I almost reluctantly handed over the electronic card key to the valet; I had become really attached to this brilliant car leased through the Renault Eurodrive program. Check it out if you are planning a driving trip abroad; you will profit from it.

My reluctance changed to awe when I entered the Tresanton. Right across from a safe and sandy beach, there are 29 picture perfect accommodations with two family suites (one more coming soon) — and every one with a glorious view of the sea and lots of antiques and local art.

JACKIE AGAIN: I love that they have a movie theatre, rare indeed. There’s a bar for the grown ups and a big special room for the young guests. They obviously love children at Tresanton and cater to families.

David’s much-adored Renault parked at St. Michael’s hotel and Spa in Falmouth.

DAVID CARRIES ON: I had only one night in paradise, so I quickly settled in and explored. St. Mawes is all stone houses lining the seafront, all wearing gelato colors: lime, lemon, raspberry, vanilla — even stracciatella. After a windy walk, I relaxed in the charming room, with its two big windows framing the sea — almost within my reach. Little pleasure boats sailed by, a fishing boat surrounded by waiting gulls: a living picture postcard. The interior was very spacious with warm, comfortable furniture mixing antique with contemporary, arresting artwork and gleaming wood floors. A perfect accommodation for the seaside — and perhaps more doable off-season! All is the personal handiwork of owner Olga Polizzi of the famous Forte hotel family. General Manager Federica Bertolini and I shared a delightful time chatting about our mutual love of Italy.

Dinner, prepared by Executive Chef Paul Wadham, was worthy of the hotel: a starter of Risotto, perfectly cooked, with butternut squash and (surprise!) bits of Amaretti biscuits. Very inventive; very, very good. The main course was up there with the best Sea Bass I’ve ever eaten: crispy skin over melt-in-the-mouth fish. Dessert was a light, creamy — really lemony — lemon tart. This is a dream destination on all counts. I heartily, with all my senses, recommend Tresanton!

St. Michael’s Hotel & Spa

JACKIE: David’s Cornish adventure continued when he took the King Harry car ferry from St. Mawes to the lively port town of Falmouth. He was too late for the lavish Christmas celebration and a bit too early for the Spring Festival. Next time I’ll come with him, maybe in August when it’s warm enough for this coldish California girl. That’s the time for Falmouth Week with parades and bands, people in costumes, arts & crafts and even an air show.

DAVID: What I’m happy not to have missed is my stay at St. Michael’s Hotel & Spa. Recently, the hotel enjoyed a six million dollar refurbishment by its owners, Nigel and Julie Carpenter. The result: contemporary, high-style, stunning and loaded with all the best of everything from top of the line furnishings in each of the rooms and suites to the welcoming Spa with an indoor heated pool and Jacuzzi, fitness rooms and soothing treatments.

Add to this the sea beyond your bedroom window and the excellent Flying Fish Restaurant. The name says it all: wonderful fresh local fish and seafood prepared by Executive Head Chef Nick Hodges, worthy of all the awards earned. So, fish it was for me — my own DIY all local seafood feast: Port Navas oysters — big, plump, heavenly — followed by an enormous Falmouth Bay scallop with monkfish gratinee and ending with a small bucket of piping hot Fal River mussels — fresh and silken and swimming in white wine and cream. No room for pudding – and no more room to write.

So, we’ll Travel…