Glamorous bedroom, Chesterfield Hotel London.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about a hotel that comes from an amazing family of great lodgings and is hands-on owned by an amazing family of hoteliers. I’ve experienced several Red Carnation Hotels, and now I have another one beckoning. David will spin yet another tale of his spring trip.

DAVID: Leaving Paris is like saying goodbye to your wife or lover. (In my case, happily, one and the same.) It was made easier knowing I would return in the near future – and, by my journey back to London on Eurostar which is always comfortable, safe, and swift. I had time to enjoy the scenery, have a delicious lunch, and anticipate my two final days in London. Then, home to Jacqueline.

My residence for those London days was still another treasure in the Red Carnation Collection of wonderful hotels, The Chesterfield in Mayfair. Thanks to the Group’s marvelous VP of PR, lovely Arnelle Kendall, I would once more be in the lap of luxury. Now I could reel out the long list of awards and honors won by Red Carnation, but you can read all that online. Rather, let me paraphrase some of the thoughts expressed by the Chesterfield’s General Manager, Oliver Raggett and Executive Chef, Ben Kelliher. “It’s not all about money,” said Oliver, “it’s about the guests, putting their comfort above everything else. And the people that make it all happen and make it seem effortless. I have 110 in staff who follow the lead of our owner, Mrs. Bea Tollman, in delivering the best service possible.” Or even (in my experience) if impossible. Both GM and Chef agreed that having Mrs. Tollman’s personal and persistent goal of perfection in every area of her hotels has made them the wonders of the industry. It is her design of each bedroom that offers the kind of elegance and comfort one enjoys. It is her involvement in the kitchen, often supplying her own recipes that help make dining a brilliant experience. None of this is lip service, it is heart felt. I can assure you; the evidence is everywhere in her Red Carnation Hotels. And my stay at the Chesterfield was proof positive. My Mayfair Suite was beautifully decorated, the bed huge and supremely comfortable. The bathroom, complete with separate stall shower and whirlpool bath, and a signature red carnation. Complimentary WiFi, flat screen TV, the fresh fruit and bottled water, turndown service … all lavish touches are typical of Red Carnation. And dinner in Butlers Restaurant proved Chef Kelil’s claim that his Dover Sole (locally sourced and fresh daily) is the best in London. Not too shabby either: Orkney king scallops to start, a heavenly chopped salad, a sample of English rose veal with a lovely rose champagne and a brilliant red. Before dinner, drinks in the buzzy bar accompanied by the kind of music I love (Cole Porter, Noel Coward, etc.) from the piano of John Hudson promised my last London night would be something to write home about. So I am!

The delicious food is only one of the many reasons The Chesterfield enjoys a 65% return business and 38% American guests. I especially like the fact that the Red Carnation hotels are pet-friendly and that they match the one pound donation added to the bill of each guest for two worthy charities. The spirit of Red Carnation comes from the very top and is instilled by people like Oliver Raggett to each member of the staff of each hotel. There is an annual gathering of over 800 from all departments from every hotel (United Kingdom, South Africa, Switzerland, and the USA) which celebrates the importance of those who serve us, their guests. Prizes are awarded, entertainment, food, and drink supplied, and the spirit renewed.

Perhaps, after we’ve enjoyed each of the hotels in the Collection (4 achieved; 10 to go), Jackie and I might be invited to join in the celebration!

Fingers crossed; we’ll Travel….

(Very) fresh shellfish at Brasserie du Lutetia, Paris.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about places, and people, in Paris. A favorite person is Marina de Frisching, a favorite place is the Lutetia Hotel, in a favorite city, Paris. David tucked in a visit after his winter in England … It must have felt like “Brigadoon”:

DAVID: “What a day this has been; what a rare mood I’m in; I think I am falling in love” – with Paris, all over again. St. Patrick’s Day, springtime in Paree, and the first day since I left home when I could go outside without my warm, heavy jacket. I shopped at the farmers’ market a block from my apartment at 20 rue Cherche Midi. A short walk ‘round the corner took me to the impressive Lutetia Hotel (which has my favorite piano bar) where I met my lunch date. Mrs. Marina de Frisching is incredibly charming and even more incredibly young for her tres important position as International Director of Sales for the only grand hotel on the Left Bank. And “Grand” is the operative word. It has been the welcoming home to a long list of celebrities as varied as Henri Matisse to Charles de Gaulle (who honeymooned here). They all relished the luxury and service offered by Lutetia.

These days, Marina travels throughout the world, especially to North America, to promote the benefits of this Art Deco masterpiece. On our travels, a couple of years ago, Jackie and I toured the Lutetia, guided by Marina and then enjoyed her company at dinner at the hotel’s Michelin-Starred gastronomic Paris Restaurant.

The hotel has a fascinating history; it was actually built in 1910 by the owner of Bon Marche (the fabulous luxury department store just a block away) to house her clients who came to Paris to have their clothes made.

JACKIE: Fortunately for David, Marina was free for lunch at Brasserie du Lutetia, the hotel’s more casual restaurant specializing in fresh from the sea-food. (I must confess to swooning over their steak tartare.) David was rhapsodizing on the dozen oysters he shared with Marina “redolent with the aroma of their recent home” (his words, you know).

DAVID: With them? Champagne, what else? I’m afraid I kept Marina at our table for two hours; our conversation was bubbly as the drink, and we discovered some things in common, including her recent trip to Chewton Glen, our dream spot in the English countryside. Only interruption was my main of perfectly grilled white fish with much needed veggies. I guided Marina to a contact for the West End hit, “Top Hat,” (since she loved “Nice Work If You Can Get It” on Broadway). Before I leave Paris I will certainly return to Lutetia, visit the Fumoir where I can enjoy a Cohiba cigar, a glass of Champagne, and the great live jazz offered every Wednesday through Sunday.

PRESERVE THE PAST AND BUILD FOR THE FUTURE

(The meaning of ‘Taokan’)

JACKIE: David has found a new restaurant, brace yourself!

DAVID: He’s young, he’s ambitious, and he’s passionate about the food of China. His name is Christophe Daine and he owns the newest, hottest restaurant in Paris. It’s called TaoKan! After 16 years in Hong Kong and Biel, Switzerland, Christophe returned to Paris with a hunger for the kind of gourmet Chinese fare he had enjoyed abroad. No such luck, only the conservative Chinese food of times gone by. So, he opened his own restaurant. It is a breath of fresh air, new in style in décor and certainly in cooking. All fresh produce and fish daily, and served in a cool contemporary Manhattan-like hot spot all in greys, sand, blacks, and mirrors with glass windows exposing the kitchen. The Chef was poached (no pun meant) from another big-time Chinese restaurant in Paris. He is shy and talented and here he can cook the way he longed for so long. For me, he prepared assorted dim sum: scallops, veggie, crispy chicken roll; spicy salmon tartare; spicy beef fillet, the sweetness of tender beef matched with fiery sauce; stir fried sea bass fillet marinated in miso sauce; stir fried noodles with soya; assorted veggies stir fried cooked to perfection. With flutes of Mercier Champagne and a glass of Chateau La Lagune 2000 Haut Medoc, a great meal. And a great value for the money. All in all, A WOW!

JACKIE: No wonder David needed to have his waist bands let out….

We’ll Travel….

Your lucky columnist in front of the 5-Star Egerton House Hotel in London. (JJ: He’s holding a Harrods bag with a surprise for me!)

JACKIE: We want to Talk about David’s Wintertime adventures in England. The cold weather did nothing to dim the extremely warm hospitality. He has many tales to tell and I’ll add my humble opinions, even though I was elsewhere … David carries on:

“NO PROBLEM A’TALL!”: A direct quote from the lovely, kind, helpful, etc. etc. Michelle Devlin, General Manager of The Egerton House Hotel in London.

I’ve just added another Red Carnation to my gorgeous bouquet. I’m talking about the admirable hotels in the distinguished Red Carnation Collection. In happy days over the last several years, I’ve been lucky enough to enjoy the hospitality of their glorious Summer Lodge in Dorset (with JJ) and at their luxurious Milestone Hotel in London. On this latest trip to Britain, I was warmly welcomed into The Egerton House in Knightsbridge, another of the 5-Star hotels owned and operated by this excellent group. The history of Red Carnation reads like a romantic novel beginning in the 1950s when a lovely and talented girl named Bea married the young South African hotelier Stanley Tollman. Their union gave birth to four children and over the years to fourteen award winning hotels beginning in their home country and expanding to the United Kingdom, Switzerland, and the USA, all owned and run by the family. The Collection is exemplified by the red carnation worn in Stanley’s buttonhole and by the taste and style of Bea Tollman, President and founder.

My London taxi pulled up in front of an elegant red brick double townhouse with the British flag proudly waving an enthusiastic “hello.” The quiet tree-lined street (now white with the sudden springtime snowfall) is so peaceful you’d never guess Harrods is just a half dozen blocks away in one direction and the Victoria and Albert Museum the same in the other. The hotel’s 5-Star status was exemplified by my beautifully decorated accommodation. This elegant boutique has a total of 30 rooms and suites, all retaining the charm and character of the original townhouses. A very intimate arrangement much like staying in an exclusive private home with loads of original art – here a Picasso, there a Matisse, and over there a Toulouse-Lautrec. In my lovely room, the bed promised a great couple of nights’ heavenly sleep with hand-stitched mattress, variety of pillows (and 200-thread Egyptian cotton sheets). For my waking hours, there was a well-stocked minibar, complimentary high-speed wireless internet, and interactive TV with movies on demand. What more could a weary traveler ask for? All thanks to Red Carnation’s PR VP, Arnelle Kendall; she’s a wow! Dinner was in the drawing room adjoining the bar. The food was simple, honest, and delicious; lovely smoked salmon and a brilliant fillet of perfectly cooked beef. I was happily entertained by Antonio Pizzuto, bar man extraordinary purported to be father of London’s best ever martini. Not my cup of drink, but he pours terrific Joseph Perrier Brut Rose Champagne and introduced me to a fabulous red called Hannibal from the Tollman family’s own South African vineyards. Antonio (my contemporary) is full of stories (lots of celebs I know/knew), and when he concocted two full-to-the-brim martinis he delivered them with steady hands not losing a drop.

Now, more about GM Michelle: I didn’t dare tell Jackie, but a careless tripping before going to London left me with a cut left palm, not serious but a bit bloody. One look and the Egerton staff were on the case, cleaning, bandaging, and caring. Especially Michelle who, though young enough to be my daughter, mothered me with TLC. Typical concern during my all-too-short stay. Any and every request, even unspoken, was answered with “No problem a’tall!” Is this any way to run a hotel. You bet your life!

EUROSTAR: London to Paris was made marvelous by my trip on Eurostar. Not only was it comfortable, safe, and swift (2 hours), my Business Premier ticket included a pre-trip visit to their exclusive lounge. And as we hurtled through the countryside, a treat was a delicious lunch, by world-famous Chef Raymond Blanc (who is now in association with Eurostar). Tres merveilleux, and very nice Champagne!

JJ: I fear I missed a good one, and I’m yearning for a revisit to their most scrumptious Summer Lodge! (Google these beauty spots!)

We’ll Travel….

The Limmat River and Zurich’s Old Town from my Hotel Storchen window.

DAVID: The Storchen Hotel in Zurich first opened its welcoming doors in the year 1357. This lovely bird is now 655 years old, but looks like it went to kindergarten for storks. It is fresh and new and up to date. I asked the generous, helpful, friendly Front Office Manager, Mrs. Regula Hanny, what American travelers should know about her hotel. “It is our location and our history.” I agree without a doubt.

My last rail journey took me from Lugano, through the snow covered countryside and mountains, to Zurich. Warm and safe inside the speedy train, once more I appreciated the ease and comfort of travel with my Eurail Pass.

JACKIE: Vicarious enjoyment, one of my favorite spots in the world is Switzerland.

DAVID: The Storchen is in Zurich’s Weinplatz fronting the Limmat River, alive with soaring white birds and regal swans. A 2-minute walk in one direction from the elegant Bahnhofstrasse which leads from the train station down to Lake Zurich and is bordered by the most famous names in fashion, banks, and jewelry (watches up the kazoo!) Just across from the bridge, steps from the hotel, is Zurich’s lively Old Town with cafes, restaurants, and fascinating shops. And along with the Storchen’s history, you can soak up that of the majestic Grossmunster (just beyond the narrow river and just outside my balcony) and the Fraumunster with the glorious windows of Marc Chagall.

JACKIE: Poor David’s flight home was canceled due to the catastrophic storm “Sandy” so he was “forced” to spend two more days in Zurich.

DAVID: Would have been perfect if you had been here, Lieben! (German for love) Next time you will be, and we will live in one of the 67 super rooms and suites of the Storchen. Each with air conditioning, Wi-Fi, duvets, and feather pillows covering big comfy beds that raise and lower with the touch of a button, fresh fruit and bottled waters daily, and they would even allow our sweet dog, Skye. There’s 24-hour Concierge service (Genarro, the chief, and Salvatore helped me sort out a rebooked flight). And General Manager Jorg Arnold and Mrs. Hannay generously helped arrange the two additional days.

The Storchen boasts the fine cooking of Chef de Cuisine Fredi Nussbaum in the Rotisserie Restaurant. The hotel has a lively Piano Bar as well as Barchetta alongside the river and the Boulevard Café fronting the Limmat. And from April to October, the hotel can be reached from the rail station by boat direct to the Storchen landing pier.

JACKIE: Sounds like the Storchen is a great recommendation for our readers. Good find, Mr. Lawrence.

DAVID: And here’s another: the Park Hyatt hotel’s Parkhuus Restaurant. My dinner date was way-too-young Laura Amanzi, Marketing & Communications Manager, who proved to communicate very well indeed. Before we were seated in the Manhattan-like dining room, Laura showed me around the hotel. Clean, contemporary, and very livable. Smashing! As was my dinner: Ruinart Blanc de Blanc Champers accompanied 6 loch Fine oysters, angel size (meaning obese!), veggie tastings: cassoulet of beans, bacon and herbs, root vegetables — parsnip, carrots, celery — spinach sautéed with pine nuts and parmesan along with silken mashed potatoes. And quite a large wood roasted veal chop, crispy golden brown outside and pink in, house made sour dough bread, and two splendid reds, one French, ‘05 Reserve de la Comtesse Pauillac, and one Italian, ’09 iL Bugiardo Valpolicella Ripasso. I had a little trouble deciding which was best; so, when in doubt, keep on tasting.

JACKIE: Another light supper for Dave! A little more about your dinner date, please.

DAVID: Very bright, totally focused, and obviously ambitious. In her 8 years at the Park Hyatt (she started when the hotel first opened) she has moved up the ladder to her current impressive position (a real asset to this venue and the whole company.)

One last travel note: a special “thank you” to Samina Sabir, PR Manager of Rail Europe, who helped make my terrific train trip through Italy and Switzerland comfortable, safe and swift via my Eurail Pass. Check it out! (and checking in … with JJ)

JACKIE: And I’m flying home from Hawaii, having said our final farewells to my beloved Billy Barnes, and as fate would have it, just in time to see a special evening of “Songs of Billy Barnes,” at Kritzerland at Sterlings on March 2, featuring Toluca Lake’s brightest stars, Nancy Dussault and JoAnne Worley (my dressing room mate for the “Billy Barnes People” Revue). Reverie, we’ll Travel….

Splendide Royale Lugano; overlooking a beautiful garden walk along the lake.

JACKIE: The Splendide Royal is just what it implies, splendid and royal … and romantic. It’s where Italy glides into Switzerland, with its own Prince Charming.

DAVID: “I’ve always wanted to be – knew someday I would be – General Manager of a Grand Hotel.” That’s not me speaking, though I wish it were; that is what Giuseppe Rossi (General Manager of the grandest hotel, Splendide Royal Lugano) told me over dinner prepared by Executive Chef Marco Ghioldi at his La Veranda Restaurant. It was not a boast; just a simple statement of a young man’s dream achieved through preparation (he became fluent in English, French, and Italian), daring to grab opportunity when it came his way, and luck. He has done it all, starting as a waiters’ assistant – delivering food from the kitchen to the waiter who delivered to the diners – becoming a sommelier who knew little about wines, but learned quickly – to private butler in a castle in Scotland owned by a very wealthy family. He worked his way up through restaurants and hotels until he achieved what he set out to do. And he is one very happy and successful gentleman who has become my friend.

JACKIE: He’s also handsome, charming, and someone I call my boy friend since we first met in Lugano. Again, this is I commenting on David’s trip.

DAVID: I can’t be jealous; Giuseppe is very happily married (and so is Jackie!) with two grown sons. He has become a valuable asset to Roberto Naldi, owner of the Splendide Royal and three other hotels with another in the works.

I have been staying at this perfectly wonderful, perfectly situated hotel for many years, and it has only grown better each time. The staff from Reception to Concierge, from Dining Room to Chef to Pianist, from bellmen to chamber-maids makes each guest feel like a Very Important Person.

JACKIE: David really likes to feel like that.

DAVID: I certainly felt that when my train was met by a Splendide bellman who took me to the hotel. I had traveled by rail from Verona to Milan where I had only 15 minutes to change trains (with more kind help). Once more, my Eurail Pass was a godsend. No crowded motorways, no expensive gas, no maps to follow. Just settle back in comfort and enjoy travel on the rail, this time from Italy into Switzerland.

The Splendide is enjoying its 125th Anniversary. It has delighted guests like Pavarotti, the Aga Khan, Francois Mitterand, and King Farouk. Oh, and Jackie and me! The celebrated Aniello Lauro, General Manager from 1978 to 2008 when he retired and recommended Giuseppe Rossi, took care of us on our dozen visits. Helped by super Concierges Giovanni and Giuseppe and Rafael and dining room manager Gerolamo and breakfast manager (a real stand up comedian) Fabrizio. Just a few of the super professional staff.

JACKIE: Ambience. Peace. Beauty. I remember how this hotel fronts the absolutely breathtaking Lake Lugano with the Pre-Alps in the background. Unforgettable.

DAVID: That heavenly sight greeted me each morning. Inside almost as gorgeous with an entry leading to large bedroom with king bed, pale golden fabric covered walls, complimentary carpeting, large antique wardrobe and desk, high ceilings featuring a splendid Murano glass chandelier. Big marble bathroom with luxury Etro toiletries, and of course, Wi-Fi, flat screen TV with several English channels.

JACKIE: Time for dinner with Giuseppe?

DAVID: If you insist. Piper Heidsieck Champagne to start with delicious hors d’oeuvres. Red tuna tartar on a green apple and broad bean ratatouille. And a perfectly roasted turbot with little vegetables. Finally, Earl Grey sorbet on lemon cake with a liquorice reduction. A very good Louis Latour Moulin a Vent throughout the meal and a yummy Pantelleria Moscato along with decaf espresso to finish.

Wonderful from beginning to end!

JACKIE: Life isn’t always fair; you never gain an ounce. Anyway, Buono appetito, and we’ll Travel….

Skye trouncing the stairs at Casa Tropicana.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about what it’s like to devote a getaway with our dog. Let us introduce you to Casa Tropicana.

DAVID: The entire Lawrence family piled into my trusty Jaguar and drove south on the 5 directly to the charming village by the sea not much more than an hour from home. It was a day of wonder, President Obama’s Inauguration, Martin Luther King’s Birthday, and a first for our family dog Skye who had never been on such a long (well-loved) drive. Our destination was the fairy tale castle Casa Tropicana perched above the sea, and separated from the beach and the famed pier only by the Amtrak train tracks.

Marvelous manager Marjory Woodbridge led the family up the stairs to Casa Del Rey, the penthouse, our private eyrie and home for two wonderful days. The stairs were a first for Skye but in a few minutes he had it down pat. At the top we stepped onto the humongous private terrace complete with bubbling hot tub staring at the sea.

JACKIE: From dawn to dark, watching the surfers was mesmerizing. Being across from the wonderful pier made for great people watching. We made a little movie about our Casa that I wish we could show you, so close your eyes and picture this … a Spanish flavored outdoor area, furnished with tables and chairs, tropical plants, lounges draped with serapes and lovely pillows, a sauna and kitchen corner well supplied with treats. A microwave (with packets of popcorn), a sink, coffee maker (with tea, regular and decaf coffee), and a fridge filled with soft drinks, juices, and water, a basket full of cookies, fruit, candy bars. Beyond the food and hot tub, is the daunting four-poster in a sitting room/bedroom/TV room that is wall-to-wall carpeted and decorated with starfish and shells, a daybed, and a rocking chair. Then up a step, past the double glass fireplace that faces both rooms, is a bathtub the size of the Coliseum, with an arcing window that allows the bather to enjoy the view. The double sinks and the zillion drawers for storing our stuff is perfectly lit and too beautiful to just brush one’s teeth. The shower is a double, in case everyone wants to play in the shower (Skye declined). Our movie starts and ends with Skye rolling around on the comfy carpet in doggie delight.

DAVID: The hospitality could spoil us. All this and a choice breakfast delivered, along with the local paper. What a perfect apartment for a honeymoon or an anniversary or any romantic stay.

Casa Tropicana is pet friendly providing guests never leave their pets alone in the room. Fine with us, this was Skye’s time. We happily took Skye back down to the street level where we found several pet friendly restaurants right next door to Casa Tropicana!

JACKIE: San Clemente has a beautiful beach, and where the sand meets the sidewalk, is a destination beach walk. We were situated mid way of the 5 mile, well groomed walk. They even supplied doggie bags for keeping the walk tidy. We just crossed the tracks and joined the walkers, and bikes enjoying the sea front. Skye and I walked and walked and walked until he stopped and gave me a quizzical look that said, “Enough already?” The next morning we walked the other direction until I got that look….

DAVID: Our first night offered a sky filled with tiny stars and the surf pounding just beyond our relaxing hot tub.

Skye led me on his final evening walk and we settled in. The occasional horn of the Amtrak train blended with the sound of the waves and did nothing to disturb our dreams.

Next day we explored the long main street of San Clemente with its unique shops, wonderful library (where we bought an armful of books), and wide variety of cafes and restaurants (many that leave water and treats for dog window shoppers).

JACKIE: A new garden/antique store, next to the library, displayed an amusing piece of metal art (a little girl holding a stand for plants). Guess where it ended up? David insisted I go to Baskin Robbins. Always a dangerous move, I say no three times, but he is persistent … and I am insatiable. So, good but not so good.

DAVID: Our last evening and another time of hot tub, my nightly Absolut, and final walk. The stars twinkled; the tide swept in and out again, as we swept in and out of our truly lovely San Clemente adventure.

We’ll Travel….

The legendary Antica Bottega del Vini on one of Verona’s narrow streets. David’s favorite spot.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about Verona, which radiates romance (Ah, Romeo) and adventure (Two Gentleman From.…)! I’m wistfully thinking of my first adventure. The Italian Doctors (for a minor infection and breaking my foot watching a bicycle race)! David, mi sole mio, continues his solo Italian journey.

DAVID: My rail trip from Venice was slightly more complex than my other rail journeys. This time my suitcase had to go from the hotel onto a Vaporetta to the rail station. Happily, a porter was on hand to load me on the waterbus for a small fee.

At the Venice station, a rail employee put me (and luggage) on board and off we went, smooth as silk, fast and so much easier than a car or a flight. FYI: Raileurope.com is the place to get your Eurail Pass.

Verona is one of my very favorite stops in Italy. Over the years I have visited half a dozen times and never tire of its delights. Its center is small, compact, lively, and easily walkable. Only problem: a dearth of decent hotels. But – miracolo! This time I discovered the solution; the Accademia. Perfectly located like a hub with spokes reaching out to all the sights, monuments, piazzas, restaurants. And super welcoming, comfortable, well-equipped, splendidly staffed. It is a 4-Star hotel yearning to be 5; so I’ll give it the fifth star. My deluxe double (poor me; only single) was sparkling clean, with a king bed, plenty of closet and drawer space, and a flat screen TV with BBC, Bloomberg, etc. The bath had a rain shower. My favorite, which is happily becoming as ubiquitous as Wi-Fi (the Accademia’s is free). And another freebie: Sara Pellegrino, the hotel’s General Manager, pointed out a small bar setup in the really attractive reading room. It includes sparkling or red wine, juices, cookies, and chips; open 1 to 5 and it’s free to the guests. And, I imagine, their guests. Great place to relax, read the London Times, and imbibe.

JACKIE: Did you imbibe San Pelligrino? Is Sara related? I would hope so. Hope you tore yourself away long enough to revisit our favorite sights.

DAVID: Worry not, my sweet Juliet (her house complete with balcony is here in Verona. Also Romeo’s … the spirit of the star-crossed lovers lives on.) I walked a short distance, down the super-luxury via Mazzini with its big name shops, cafes, and people, to the Arena built in the first century AD and now an Amphitheatre where magnificent operas (and Rock Stars) thrill audiences of 20,000. Then into Piazza Bra lined with palaces, restaurants, and shops.

Tomorrow I would visit Piazza Erbe and wander through the colorful fruit and vegetable market and nearby Piazza Dei Signori, elegant and aristocratic with its commanding statue of Dante who lived and wrote in Verona.

JACKIE: I’m sure you covered it all, including the Castelvecchio and the bridge where we gazed at the River Adige. Now, what about our favorite subject – food?

DAVID: Yep; the way to a fella’s heart. Hands down, the Antica Bottega del Vini is Verona’s best restaurant. Not just because of the food (which is awfully good), but mostly because of the atmosphere which generous General Manager Steffano Sganzeria properly describes as a place where old friends meet and new friends are made. It is Italy’s equivalent of Britain’s best pubs, America’s neighborhood bars. It is warm, inviting, easy to visit, almost impossible to leave. All dark wood accented with furniture to match, doors with bottle glass panels, and wine bottles on shelves everywhere! Some so rare my heart skips a beat. The bottles are real; the liquid inside not – just for show; but what a show! At the slightly raucous bar, the wine is the real thing. Choose from a long list on the blackboard, or (as I did) have energetic and all-knowing sommelier Mirko Favalli choose for you. Guided expertly by Mirko, I sampled seven of the best starting with a wonderful Franciacorta brut Faccolli and ending with a regal Soffocone di Vinciglata.

The seven accompanied my meal – three tastings of duck foie gras terrine, polenta with mushrooms and local cheese, and aubergine parmigiana. Each delicious. Somehow I made room for baked suckling pig (crispy skin and succulent fat and melting meat) with golden roasted potatoes. Dessert: dark vanilla gelato studded with raisins. If I were rich as this ice cream, I could run for president. Mirko produced a final wine, La Sorpresa ’06 (liquid honeyed gold!) Perfetto, Steffano; you have made the Bottega a home away, a special place to drink and eat and feel at one with all your lucky neighbors.

JACKIE: Don’t forget the enoteca Hippopotamus with burgers, and paper crowns for the kids! And, we’ll Travel….

The Venice Lagoon from my window at the excellent Londra Palace.

DAVID: Once more, my amazing Eurail Pass from RailEurope.com was my simple and economical way to travel, this time from Florence to Venice. The train was sleek and comfortable and fast. And there were plenty of willing hands to help me on — and after an easy ride complete with included newspapers, orange juice, and cookies — off the train with my heavy suitcase.

Every one – every man woman and child – should visit Venice at least once in a lifetime. It is the stuff dreams are made of; Disneyland on the water, a city to get lost in (literally; but who cares!) A place to fall in love for the first time, or all over again. And when the mist drifts in, Venice becomes haunted. The churches, the monuments, the piazzas, the people all take on a ghostly appearance. Romantic and lyrical.

For me, on this trip, the only thing missing – my wife.

JACKIE: Look around; I am there with you, one of the ghosts.

DAVID: Well, not in my hotel, the wonderful Londra Palace, a few steps back from the lagoon with all the water traffic – from gondolas to delivery boats to Vaporettas (water buses), to huge cruise ships – just beyond my room and my balcony. Thanks to General Manager Alain Bull (dapper, handsome, charming) and Stefania Vaccari, his Assistant GM (welcoming, helpful, and knowledgeable).

I was more than comfortably housed in a Junior Suite facing all the splendor of Venice. The passing parade – hundreds of tourists and dozens of water craft – entertained me constantly. Inside, the walls of my room were covered in striped pale blue and gold fabric; the draperies and carpeting picked up the antique pattern, and my sitting room and bedroom each had a flat screen TV and doors leading to the terrace and balcony. Only the excitement of Venice beyond could lure me out. I had to dodge my way through the hoards of tourists as I walked up and down the massive bridges leading to Piazza San Marco with its Ducal Palace, Basilica, Campanile, and everywhere everyone taking pictures, eating gelato, kids chasing pigeons, and a few couples dancing.

JACKIE: My favorite thing, best memory of Venice on our first trip, you and I dancing in the middle of Piazza San Marco to the music of Tuxedoed orchestras in restaurants on both sides of the square.

A Gondolier glides past the Rialto Bridge.

DAVID: So come on over; we’ll dance again. Or – I’ll continue following the canals, watching the gondolas, and window-shopping as I passed a zillion small stores with souvenirs and several with high fashion or high priced jewelry or Murano glass. Finally exhausted, I returned to the Londra Palace, my room, and my rain shower. Fresh again, I went down stairs to the hotel’s restaurant Do Leoni where a Grey Goose with lots of ice and a slice of fresh orange prepared me for the dinner to come prepared by Chef Loris Indri. To start, a thick slice of cold Foie Gras served with a fabulous cherry crumble, moist and delicious. Poor us; we can send a man to the moon, an explorer to Mars, but we cannot produce foie gras without harming the goose.

JACKIE: I enjoy the duck foie grass, you know. A victory for the geese! Perhaps our priority should be to first cure cancer and reduce crime and….

DAVID: OK, love; point taken. Meanwhile, the second Maitre d’, Luca Bisaro, brought a half bottle of lush, deep Masi Costasera Amarone ’07 to accompany my al dente spaghettoni in sauce with bits of scallops, courgettes, and saffron. Half the half bottle later, bright pink slices of roasted rump of lamb with escalopes of green pea puree. Also, a much needed insalata mista (mixed salad). My dessert was white chocolate gelato with wild strawberries and a flute of Laurent Perrier champagne. Bravo, Do Leoni! Excellent meal on my first night in Venice.

On the last day, after arranging a porter with the help of my hotel’s Concierge, Alvise Zavagno, I absolutely had to hit Harry’s Bar. This, the original, established in 1931, has become synonymous with Venice. Elvio De Marchi, Harry Cipriani’s manager, brought my brief trip to a happy ending with the celebrated Bellini. One for the road!

JACKIE: Next time, and perhaps in 2013, Venice is possible for all. Happy New Year we’ll Travel….

Relais Santa Croce Sales Manager Marianna Toth in elegant music room.

DAVID: Florence. Firenze. I call it Fabulous! An ancient city that never grows old, Art everywhere (Leonardo da Vinci’s Annunciation), sculpture in the piazzas (Michelangelo’s David), churches galore (the Duomo), super restaurants, and a river runs through it – the Arno wandering under the Ponte Vecchio, most famous of Firenze’s amazing bridges.

JACKIE: I’ll never forget the splendid museums – the Uffizi Gallery and the Accademia and the Bargello, not to mention the Pitti Palace and the Boboli Gardens (we once walked a 5K through those Gardens)!

DAVID: My Hotel in Florence was the 5-Star Relais Santa Croce, a kiss away from one of the city’s most elegant piazzas and neighbor to the Santa Croce Basilica. A bit quieter than the crowded town center with all its spectacular attractions, and all just minutes away by the city’s best means of transportation – your feet. In the 18th century, the Relais Santa Croce was an elite residence; today it has retained its sumptuous furnishings and frescoed ceilings (lovingly restored) and has added creature comforts, all things tech. Concierge service 24 hours a day and SKY channel, free access also for programs on demand. The hotel shares the building with one of Italy’s most celebrated (and expensive) restaurants, Enoteca Pinchiorri where Jackie and I had lunch just before the Relais Santa Croce became a hotel. Thanks to its tip top Sales Manager, Marianna Toth, and General Manager Eugenio Rigo, I was happily housed in one of the 28 superb accommodations, a large corner room with the Basilica almost touchable from my windows. I love the fact that the rooms and suites are clean and contemporary, a sharp contrast to the antique elegance of the public areas. The Relais is a stellar member of the outstanding Baglioni Hotel group. Seek them out on your next trip to Italy.

JACKIE: And do sneak a peek on the Internet! Now David will tell you of my personal passion in Florence….

DAVID: I joined the throng of locals and tourists crossing the Arno River via the Ponte Vecchio, the only one of Florence’s bridges to escape bombing by the Nazis during WWII. It was built in the 14th century, and today it is loaded with gold and silver; dozens of the city’s designers, creators, and sellers of the precious metals reside in shops lining both sides of the bridge. My destination was Oltrarno, the other side of the river and a shop adored by my wife. It is the sales room of Angela Caputti, a lovely woman who works in her own precious material – plastics – fashioned into necklaces, bracelets, pins, earrings of charming designs and delectable colors. Over the years, Angela has sold me gifts for Jacqueline she prizes more than the diamonds and watches I have brought her.

JACKIE: I’m such a peasant, he does indulge, however I’m very content with the brilliant plastic art of Angela Caputti (Google her!)

Magnificent Santa Croce Church outside my window.

DAVID: Now, about the food at Relais Santa Croce’s Ristorante Guelfi & Ghibellini. My dinner was supervised by Chef de cuisine Fabrizio Innocenti. It began with a flute of icy Pommery champagne and the amuse bouche, a carpaccio of beef. Next, a taste of two starters: a single steamed king prawn on a rosemary flavored cream of chickpeas. Second was a mound of spaghetti vongole (clams in their shells) with dried tomato sauce. More than a taste of two mains: chunks of tender white meat of chicken alongside Tuscan beans with sage. And then a fillet, the best part of the traditional T-bone Fiorentina (totally wonderful!) My wine was a 2008 Chianti Classico I closed with a selection of sorbetti – lemon, strawberry, peach, and passion fruit. My 2-hour dinner ended and I retired to the fumoir where I had a nightcap – Grey Goose on loads of ghiaccio (ice) with a fetta di arancia (slice of orange) and enjoyed one of my rare Cohiba cigars.

The only way to live!

JACKIE: In your dreams.

Don’t let him scare you, he can’t help himself.

So, here’s to the simple things …

We’ll Travel…..

A view from David’s room, the age-old tiles and the not distant towers of the famed Siena Duomo.

JJ: We want to Talk about Siena, a medieval marvel full of magical memories. David will do most of the chat as, for this recent trip, he was there. (I was tending garden – at home.)

DAVID: If you were traveling to Italy, you would undoubtedly hit her most famous cities – Rome, Florence, Venice – but you might not even think of visiting Siena. That would be a grande mistake. Molto grande. Siena is an ancient city surrounded by massive walls, completely closed to traffic, immensely walkable, charming and captivating. In actual fact, UNESCO has named Siena a World Heritage Site. So, take this traveler’s advice; don’t pass it by. Like the other hill towns of Tuscany, this one was first settled back in 900 BC and it has a rich history filled with enough melodrama to make an exciting background for a TV miniseries. I spent my three days at the Grand Hotel Continental, the only 5-star albergho within the city walls. It started its life as a wedding gift from Pope Alexander V11 to his niece.

The hotel is still a palace, luxurious with its splendid paintings, frescoes, and silver-framed mirrors. And my accommodations were fit for royalty, with 20+ foot ceilings, dramatic murals on the wall, and an enormous terrace overlooking this fascinating city.

I sought out the well-remembered sights of earlier visits; the Duomo and the Piazza del Campo. The Cathedral was built in the 12th century, its façade completed in 1380, and it is an outstanding example of Italian Romanesque-Gothic architecture. The magnificent octagonal pulpit supported by lordly lions is worth a long exploration. The Campo is enormous with stone seating leading down to the arena where the Palio, a world-famous horse race is held twice each year.

JACKIE: My main memory: In the still of the evening, from our window, we were awestruck hearing a low rat-a-tat-tat from a respectful drummer. He was guiding a mystical and solemn parade, leading the Palio’s winning horse to the banquet hall where the celebration dinner was held with the horse (at the table), as guest of honor. Traditions, culture….

DAVID: Speaking of dinner, a highlight was the late Gianni Brunelli’s Osteria le Logge (the lodges). Terrific Tuscan fare. The cooking starts early in the morning with a painstaking search of the local markets and shops for the best possible products, freshest veggies, and best cuts of meat. These ingredients are transformed into traditional dishes of quality and distinction, some with an innovative twist. I had the pleasure of chatting with Laura Brunelli, widow of Gianni, who now manages the Osteria with Mirco Vigni and Agostino La Sorte, and maintains the original philosophy of lighter, healthier cuisine using organic products as much as possible. My selection from Chef Nico Atrigna included steamed carciofi (artichokes) on a pool of mandarine orange and black olives (fantastic combo), then ravioli zucca (pumpkin) and butter (the best I’ve ever had) and guancia di manzo (beef cheek) cooked for hours and delicious, accompanied by Tuscan fagioli (white beans) in olive oil. The wines (marvelous) came from the family’s own vineyards in Montalcino. Go! Mangia!! Enjoy!!!

Strolling back to the very Grand Hotel Continental I paused at the Piazza del Campo and imagined the ghosts of the Palio, that furious, sometimes violent race of horses around the confined space, at times dangerously close to the spectators. I could almost feel the fear, hear the raucous cheers. Then for me – a buono notte and my own cheers for the sumptuous interior of the Grand Hotel and the peaceful dreams in my room fit for the niece of a Pope.

JACKIE: Ain’t life (and you) grand, but then that’s Siena!

We’ll Travel….