The “Burger”!

“PRACTICE ALOHA”: We want to Talk about the spirit of Hawaiian dinin’. Casual, uniquely delicious, and something to know about if you are heading to Maui. Just sharing our experience is Practicing Aloha….

Let’s start with Mala and Honu and unexpected connections.

JACKIE: THE CAST OF CHARACTERS – MARK & JUDY ELLMAN, owners of Mala/Honu.

THE ELLMAN FAMILY, daughters Tina, Ariana, and Michelle.

BARRY MOSS, the well respected Broadway Casting Director and uncle of Mark.

ROMI, Hanu’s official welcome wagon.

DINERS, Lawrence & Lawrence.

THE STORY. Their mission statement is “Practice Aloha.” It’s on all employees’ shirts, stickers, and a wonderful book, Practice Aloha. “Practicing Aloha is something I have to remind myself to do every day,” states Mark Ellman who, with his wife Judy, owns and operates Mala and Honu. “It is healthier for one’s mind, spirit, attitude, and physical being; there is a little bit of Aloha in all our recipes….”

Last year’s trip to Maui brought us to Mala, An Ocean Tavern. What we thought was a beachfront shack turned out to be a major event. I was meant to find their Burger (officially called “Snake River Farms Kobe Beef Cheeseburger”). It was like taking LSD (never tried it, but from what I saw on Mad Men it was, as they say, a trip!) When my delirious passion subsided, I declared it the best Hamburger ever, period.

Beautiful bones at HANU, on the ocean in Lahaina, Maui.

So, a few months go by and Barry Moss, our special New York friend, heard us boast about this Maui burger. He says, “I have a nephew who has a restaurant called Mala, in Lahaina.” Turns out he is the uncle of Mark Ellman.

We naturally returned on this trip and declared a forever relationship. I’m so into the spirit, David can get to essentials….

DAVID: On this trip, we had a light, luscious lunch at the Ellman’s newest, Honu, right next door to Mala. The two share in common: 1.) their beach front location – so close you can almost touch the visiting sea turtles near the shore, 2.) gorgeous food and drink (both have a classy bar), 3) the Aloha spirit discovered by Mark and Judy when they moved to the island from their Sherman Oaks restaurant (Cuisine Cuisine) in 1985.

We lapped up seared sashimi, steamed clams, and we shared a brick oven pizza with Ali’I mushrooms (they’re famed for their indescribable pizza). You can’t have too much of a good thing, so … dinner at Honu was a feast for all the senses. I had nine assorted oysters on the shell, and Jackie adored the Kale Salad, Molokai Prawns, Lamb ringlets, and the fragrant Butternut Coconut Squash Soup.

JACKIE AGAIN: Beyond delicious! You know the saying, “The meat was so tender it fell off the bone”; well the bone fell of the bone — perfect for a bone baby like me…. Both restaurants share the gifted pastry chef, who created a Passion Fruit Tart (and I really mean tart) and a Carrot Cake cupcake for us. And yes, we shared. And yes, as a friend of Uncle Barry, we were treated majestically.

At Mala, we met Judy Ellman and she gifted us with their heartening books Mala Ocean Tavern Cookbook and Practice Aloha. We devoured the Burger, dangerous and delectable that is served at both restaurants.

At Hanu (with charming art), we were greeted by the bubbling Romi, and had the good fortune to chat with Chef and nephew of Barry Moss, Mark Ellman. Brilliant and beneficent, outflow to the community is an important part of their Aloha Practice.

We talked about their love of family, of Italy and Yoga, which they practice daily at their home facing the sea on Front Street in Lahaina and of their newest restaurant, with long time partner Shep Gordon, called Mala Wailea at the Wailea Marriott (every seat has an ocean view). The ownership includes Clint Eastwood, Alice Cooper, Don Nelson, and Jim Wiatt, and has helped to make it Maui’s place to see the stars. It’s a casually glittery crowd, with many A-list celebs.

DAVID WRAPS: As they say, “When the sun goes down, the stars come out.” The internet brings you an essence of all the locations, the Aloha, and the food. Browse, and browse.

We can’t emphasize how good the cooking is; hopefully you can try it yourself. We’ll Travel….

A traveling grand finale, after a series of glorious locations, the hotel One Aldwych was the icing on the cake. In London, a city that was literally ice-ing, this dandy hotel has a special warmth. Elegant and witty, it’s my London favorite. David tells you why….

ONE ALDWYCH IS THE PLACE TO BE!

One Aldwych, Queen of all she surveys.

DAVID: It’s the last day of my all-alone six-week trip to wintry England and the second day of my stay at One Aldwych (and I quote: “London’s Definitive Contemporary Luxury Hotel”). You got that right, Howard (Howard Rombough, Public Relations Director and friend who steered me to this perfect place in this great city). Outside, it is cold: 2 degrees with snow still in patches. Inside, it’s red-hot; the joint’s jumpin’. My hotel’s Lobby Bar, the buzziest place in town, is star-studded with the glittering celebrities attending the BAFTA (British Academy of Film and Television) Awards held at the Royal Opera House just next door. As a past president of our own Television Academy, I was attracted like a moth to the flame.

The night before, I had enjoyed a deep sleep at One Aldwych on the super comfortable bed dressed with Frette linen. After a strong hot shower to thaw my body, following the walk back from The Ivy where I had lunched with good, far-away friends John Scott and Robin Dorkings. They had traveled in from their countryside homes, braving the icy roads, just to join me. I was honored.

The final morning started well with a delicious breakfast at Indigo, one of the hotel’s two fine restaurants. Excellent food, beautifully prepared and served and at surprisingly moderate prices, especially for a five star hotel. Before I ventured out into the ice-cube weather, I explored some of the attractive features of One Aldwych. One is the state of the art gym whose charms I fought off since the walk outside would provide all the exercise I needed. Even more alluring was the clear, beautiful chlorine-free swimming pool with its underwater music.

Setting up BAFTA Awards event next door to hotel.

I walked the short distance to take some pictures of the crew setting up for that night’s BAFTA event. Then on to Trafalgar Square and the National Portrait Gallery where I joined the crowds attending the spellbinding exhibition of the work of Lucien Freud.

What a world he inhabited!

Within a few minutes of my hotel are other not-to-miss sights of this great city – entertaining and colorful Covent Garden, dozens of major theatres with memorable musicals and plays, St. Paul’s Cathedral, a couple of blocks away the Thames River snakes through and around the whole city. A tad further, but easily available by bus or tube, you can visit Buckingham Palace, the British Museum, Hyde Park, the mouth-watering glamour shops of Bond Street, a world of pubs and cafes and restaurants.

If London is your oyster, One Aldwych is its pearl. An historical Edwardian building filled with all the necessities and all of the luxuries. Almost finally, something especially dear to my heart and indispensable to Jackie’s — the owner, management, and staff are dedicated to protecting the environment and saving energy. Their efforts have won the praise of green-loving patrons and awards from prestigious eco associations. Do Google and learn.

Now, really finally: Dinner at Indigo, at a table by the balcony overlooking the glamorous lobby bar, was delicious from a choose your own ingredients salad to the succulent pink lamb chops on the bone, to the dark magic of the chocolate plate.

So — you missed the BAFTA event and the snow, but there’s time for the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee in June and the London Olympics in July. Don’t miss them — or One Aldwych!

JACKIE: Time has flown and so have we. Together again, we are doing a bit of Spring on the Hawaiian island of Maui. Talk about warmth! Blessed with an offer of a former classmate’s timeshare, we’ll be on Kaanapali Beach searching for a whale when this issue is on the stands. It’s our honeymoon spot, so this trip is a delayed anniversary celebration, plus a David Birthday do. Our next column will be full of Aloha.

We’ll Travel….

The Manor House in Castle Combe: The prettiest village in England, it’s a star in its own right, featured in the original “Doctor Doolittle” with Rex Harrison.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about two noble locations in England; again David is solo, while I’m holding down the fort and planting the snow peas….

DAVID: Somerset and Wiltshire, two of England’s most beautiful counties, boast two of her most beautiful towns and villages with two of her most outstanding hotels.

THE MANOR HOUSE, CASTLE COMBE, WILTSHIRE. About 350 people live in this magical village; but millions have seen it – on television and in the movies. I discovered it in 1967 when my friend Ray Aghayan designed the costumes for the Rex Harrison movie musical, Doctor Dolittle, and urged me to visit. (Years later I would speak with Mr. Harrison and gain permission to use clips of his performance in my That’s Hollywood TV series.) Now I was back, having just seen the small, wondrous village co-starring in the new movie War Horse.

I stayed, thanks to Edward Boulton, Marketing Coordinator, and GM Stephen Browning, at The Manor House, the absolutely perfect country house hotel. The years have been more than kind to the superbly designed house. Today there are scrumptious accommodations which have earned The Manor House its 5 Star status; you can play golf, tennis, croquet, go fly-fishing in its lake, or just get busy doing nothing, all on its 365 acre wonderland. My two days were happily spent in one of the completely modernized (without loss of the original character) cottages. Dinner was taken in The Manor House’s “Michelin-starred” Bybrook restaurant where I relished the cuisine of young Chef Richard Davies. All new since my first time here. What has not changed is the warm Cotswold stone of the main hotel and the luxurious cottages. A few steps away and you can wander the enchanted 17th century village and re-live the movies it has co-starred in. My two days and nights were just enough to make me want to return regularly to Castle Combe and the magnificent Manor House Hotel. I heartily recommend it!

JACKIE: Luckily, I have seen the enchanting Castle Combe; unluckily, I’ve not experienced the hotel … yet.

DAVID: QUEENSBERRY HOTEL, BATH, SOMERSET. A few short miles away and you are in another county, almost another world. Bath is well known for its stellar attractions: the famous Roman Baths, its museums, and its celebrated daughter Jane Austen. Bath’s antique shops, amazing Georgian architecture, the Royal Crescent, and Pulteney Bridge over the Avon River are treasures. However, there’s another treasure I’ve just discovered – the boutique Queensberry Hotel where I spent two terrific days. The website tipped me off to the offbeat, friendly, contemporary quality offered by the owners, Laurence & Helen Beere. Take a look; you’ll enjoy the style. And I enjoyed the comfort of my excellent accommodation — a lovely junior suite reserved for me by charming General Manager Lauren McCann — the delicious full English breakfast, and the perfect location of the Queensberry. It’s an easy walk to all of Bath’s attractions and a short walk back for a good rest, a bracing shower, and then champagne in the Q Bar followed by dinner in The Olive Tree Restaurant. Quite a large space with quite a lot of well-dressed, mostly young people enjoying a Friday night treat. Mine left me dreaming of perfectly cooked risotto (with cepes and parmesan), one of the best filets of beef I have ever had (hands down!), and my pudding (dessert), a marvelous peanut butter ice cream.

An excellent Burgundy kept me and my food good company.

An offbeat house with features that bring a smile, the Queensberry is small, intimate, perfect for relaxing, and replete with caring, helpful staff. If you’ve never been to Bath, you don’t know what you’re missing — and if/when you go, don’t dare miss the Queensberry Hotel.

JACKIE: I did — missed the Queensberry and missed David.

 We’ll Travel….

We want to Talk about the singular Widder Hotel in Zurich, the last stop on David’s solo sojourn last fall. This superior and imaginative hotel had dazzled me a few years back. Now let’s try to bring you there:

THE WIDDER

The Middle of the Riddle of the Widder: The entrance, in the center of the nine original buildings, behind those windows, imagination runs wild.

DAVID: I have traveled the world for over 50 years for pleasure and for business. I have stayed in dozens of cities, towns and villages, in hundreds of hotels, and if I had only one to choose as my last stay, it would be the Widder in Zurich, Switzerland. First reason (and second and third): General Managers Mr. and Mrs. Jan E Brucker who have assembled and trained a team of young, pleasant, helpful men and women who grant your every wish almost before you’ve requested it. Next, the Widder is the epitome of style, comfort, and conveniences.

Speaking of comfort and convenience, getting to Zurich, with the aid of my Swiss Rail Pass, was a piece of gateau! I had zipped from Geneva to Lucerne in First Class on the swift, silent, sexy Swiss rail and two days later my Pass (courtesy of L.A. based Maja Gartmann), allowed me to walk onto the snazzy train, choose any seat, and ride without a care to my destination, Zurich and the wonderful Widder.

I was greeted with warmth, escorted up the unique glass and steel elevator, and was shown into my Suite 210. It is magnificent with a huge living room intricately paneled with lustrous, richly-grained wood on walls, ceiling, and floor. An enormous matching armoire covers one wall; another holds a glass and chrome desk with WiFi and a Nespresso system. An emerald-green suede couch and chair face a Bang & Olufsen outfit providing television (lots of English channels), great sound, radio, and CD and DVD players. My bedroom sported another TV, another huge armoire, and a bed with a remote control that raises and lowers sections for supreme comfort. A giant bathroom with dark-green veined marble and mirrors galore includes the central mirror that comes to life at a touch to reveal a TV showing through. In actual fact, I wouldn’t mind at all living in Suite 210 for quite a long while…. (JJ comments: Me neither, with its separate WC and sink.)

Mr. Brucker’s note welcomed me; his Veuve Clicquot and living white orchids made me wish once more Jacqueline was with me. Later, Jan, an utterly charming and urbane gent who is also Chairman of Swiss Deluxe Hotels, told me, “It is the fact that the original nine buildings dating from the 1200s have been meticulously combined and totally restored, modernized to form one perfect hotel. It opened in 1995 as the Widder (‘Ram’ in English, named after the Society of Butchers who once inhabited the original Guild Hall in the 1500s).” Today, 42 rooms and seven suites with no two identical make up the Five Star Hotel, with a superb location. I wandered ancient streets around the Widder, and the modern world of major designers and zillions of watches lining the main street that lead down from the rail station to Lake Zurich. On another day, I took the short walk from the Widder across a bridge over the Limmat River fed by the lake and strolled around the very old section which is much more Bohemian in nature.

Through all this sightseeing my appetite was fueled and satisfied one night at the formal gourmet Widder Restaurant featuring the delicious work of Executive Chef Alexander Kroll. I chose the Chef’s three-course menu starting with a lovely filet of John Dory with goose liver and crunchy hazel nuts. My first wine was the lush ‘09 Chateauneuf du Pape. For my main, a slow-cooked goulash of tender chunks of venison with rich gravy, red cabbage, bacon, and mushroom. A hearty 2005 Rioja accompanied. The dessert was called B&W — dark and white chocolate in various forms. Ruinart rose champagne was the finishing touch.

JACKIE: I peacefully visualize the Widder, and its assortment of fantastic quarters, courtesy of Google.

DAVID: Sil vous plait; check out online sites for the Widder in Zurich and Swiss Rail Pass.

We’ll Travel….

The famous facade of the Hotel des Balance in Lucerne, Switzerland.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about a gem of a hotel, but David will do most of the chat. I left for home after Paris, but still have much affection for the Hotel des Balances from memorable prior visits. Ah, we can’t always be everywhere … unless you are David.

DAVID: If location were its only advantage, Hotel des Balances in Lucerne, Switzerland would still be a real winner. Its front facade, decorated with paintings in the style of Hans Holbein, has sat in the heart of the Old Town since the year 1200. Its back (and my room) is right on the River Reuss, which flows into Lake Lucerne with the Rigi and the Pilatus Mountains beyond also in plain view, as are the hundreds of large white swans, the sea gulls, the famous Chapel Bridge, the Water Tower, and the splendid Jesuit Church. Since it became the Balances in 1807, the hotel has welcomed a host of celebrities including George Bernard Shaw, Princess Louise of Baden, Queen Wilhemine of the Netherlands, and your humble correspondent, myself. Having said all this, location is just the beginning of the story. Balances CEO Peter E. Busser and the young, talented staff insure a stay that earns every one of its four stars, and then some. Recently remodeled, the rooms are contemporary, bright, spotless, and the last word in comfort. Mine had two balconies overlooking all the landmarks I’ve mentioned, and an interior with huge gilt-framed mirrors, lots of space for clothes, a huge bed, and furnishings that could be welcomed in an art museum. Downstairs, one flight below reception, is the gourmet restaurant, domain of Chef Andreas Fluri, where I enjoyed daily breakfast and a memorable dinner – more about that later. There is also an adjoining bar and lounge where arriving guests may “spend” their complimentary cocktail card; I did on my first evening and was treated to a combination of sparkling Prosecco with a touch of elderberry syrup and crushed fresh mint. Delightful and refreshing. Bordering this handsome space is a terrace on the river, perfect for a lunch or good-weather drink.

Now, a word or two about Lucerne itself, one of my favorite towns. It’s all here: the cobblestone streets that wind from the Wine Market to the Corn Market, wandering past shops and cafes and restaurants and hotels and, of course, watches – Swiss watches from hundreds to thousands of Swiss Francs. The streets end at the Swan Place across from the Lake Lucerne. If you walk along a few minutes in one direction you are at the rail station; a bit longer in the other and you come to the enormous and emotional Lion Monument: a magnificent beast, wounded and dying and crying.

Point your camera in any direction, at any corner, and you will capture a wonderful memory. The day before I left, there was a sports exhibition and a “stop cancer” drive. The next day there would be a marathon through the Old Town. But tonight, for me, there is dinner in the Balances Restaurant, the best in Lucerne.

My meal got off to a splendid start thanks to the Chef’s gift: three bite-sized delicacies, Scallop, Scampi, and Lobster, each cooked to the split second of perfection. Next, a fillet of Pike-Perch: moist, flaky and – again — perfect. My main was veal steak, simply grilled with olive oil and pepper and accompanied by a superb pumpkin risotto with chunky Boletus mushrooms. An encore of my Champagne accompanied a large spoonful of each of the house ice creams – vanilla, sour cream, coconut, and chocolate. I was so stuffed even the next morning I had to struggle to breakfast. But Balances’ is so unique, I couldn’t resist. The buffet consists of small plates, each containing: smoked salmon or herring or salami or cheeses, cherry tomatoes, cuke slices, and more. Almost Japanese in concept. You choose the plates you want and one of the lovely servers brings coffee and offers eggs. My egg white omelet with onions and mushrooms was the best I’ve ever had — including my own.

The symbol for Hotel Des Balances is a scrawled “B” and its motto is: Enjoy the “Ins-B-Ration” moments. Believe me; I did.

We’ll Travel….

Majestic Plane trees of the medieval Cloitre Saint-Louis in Avignon.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about two very special venues in France, both unique and universal. I had previously visited both these enchanting cities and have delicious memories. However, I needed to return home after Paris, home that offers the universally unique Toluca Lake Open House (this coming Friday!), a tour unto itself.

DAVID: The 150 miles from Antibes, my weeklong stop on the French Riviera, whizzed by as my leased Renault Clio took me into the ancient heart of Avignon surrounded by its medieval ramparts. Great little dependable car and so easily and economically supplied via my new discovery: Wheels in Europe and Renault Eurodrive. Please check out their websites.

JACKIE: When I think of Avignon I dwell on the fragrant couscous tagines in the casual university restaurant. Let’s see what David dwells on (Did you watch The Borgias?).…

DAVID: Now to the city of the Popes, who occupied Avignon from 1309 to 1423 during the Catholic schism. So I was compelled to spend my three days at The Cloitre Saint-Louis, constructed over a 100-year period ending in 1738. Before it became today’s four-star, modern hotel in medieval dress, it was a monastery, a convent, a military hospital, and the National Theatre Center (which still occupies the northern wing). The contemporary wing has a roof top swimming pool. My enormous accommodation had the original stone walls and arches and an emperor-sized bed with a five-step walk up to a large sitting room surrounded by centuries old stone and with a sky-high beamed ceiling. The floors were all burnt-red tiles, yet it was modern and comfy. Outside, the buildings surrounded a large park with a fountain and six majestic Plane trees…. After a weekend of wandering the fascinating city, I met Alain List, congenial manager of the Hotel Cloitre Saint-Louis, who kindly showed me other rooms and the well-equipped meeting room. All in all, a perfect place to spend a few days in amazing Avignon.

ON TO ANNECY

Thrilling view from my balcony at L’Imperial Palace in Annecy.

A sudden storm and heavy fog added an hour to my drive, but my Renault Eurodrive Clio and her excellent TomTom GPS performed like champions. The sun was out to light up my destination, the great white edifice, L’Imperial Palace, a hundred year old structure completely re-modeled in 1990 to become a contemporary version of the Grand Hotels of times gone by. Today it is a three-in-one combination of 99 rooms and suites comprising the four-star hotel in the center with adjoining casino on one side and banquet and conference rooms on the other. Quite a world unto itself and situated on a wooded park-like peninsula with Europe’s purest Lake Annecy stretching out behind the Palace to meet the French Alps looking close enough to touch. My balcony overlooked this glorious scene. The room, furnished in a modern version of Art Deco with polished woods and shining chrome, a real “wow-ee”! Unexpected extra, a complimentary mini-bar! After a bountiful buffet breakfast, I met with Laurence Mogli, the pretty lady who looks much too young for her position as head of PR and events planning, along with supervising production of brochures and all promotional material. We dined at the restaurant La Voile (The Veil), and she explained that the menu prices were deliberately moderate to encourage guests to sample their uncomplicated (but delicious) approach to French cuisine (Ah, my juicy lamb chops!). A quick trip to the casino, where I actually won a few Euros at roulette — just another touch of luck while staying at the Imperial Palace, a few minutes from the terrific old town of Annecy.

JACKIE: My Imperial memory is the peace one finds in the art filled park and the lake with Mont-Blanc in the distance. Have a virtual visit: http://www.hotel-imperial-palace.com.

I still have more Paris to share, especially the time in our terrific digs there. We found our dear apartment on: I Love Paris Apartments website. Hope you can find one too.

We’ll Travel….

The view from Hotel Lutetia overlooking a little park in front of Bon Marche with The Eiffel Tower in the distance.

As this Tolucan Times is a Restaurant Issue, we are eager to present two dreamy and delectable dining spots for your Paris wish list. Their cuisine is beautiful and beyond. The locations are majestic and historic hotels.

LE BRISTOL HOTEL’S “114, Faubourg”

Lunch on the Right Bank

DAVID: The address (#114) graces a street, Faubourg Saint-Honore, which began its illustrious life in 1715 and has become known as one of the most treasured in the world. Le Bristol Hotel shines its 5 Stars over this street of lavishly luxurious designer shops, antique stores, art galleries, and presidential residences. Until recently, in order to sample the cuisine of the Bristol’s gastronomic restaurant and its 3-Starred Chef Eric Frechon, most would have to afford all the other things that can be purchased on this famous street.

Now, however, there is a second, relatively reasonably priced restaurant — 114 faubourg — a sure sign that management recognizes the current economy.

JACKIE: Let me be crystal clear, the quality of 114, faubourg meets the standard always offered by the classic Bristol kitchen. It is as beautiful and comfortable a dining space that one could dream of. The flowered wall paintings put me in a dream state, while I savored the finest lunch I had in Paris. We chose the lower of 114’s two levels where we could view the kitchen and the deft dance of the staff, including young Chef Eric Desbordes, mentored by Chef Frechon. They gracefully produced the superb food. David will recommend.…

DAVID: JJ savored the preserved duck foie gras with spices, figs, and raisin jelly. Her Sole and fresh spinach with capers oil sauce, perfection. (She kept nibbling at my beautifully presented salad of crunchiest lettuce hearts, candied tomatoes with cream of anchovy sauce.) I had a wonderful fillet of veal with parmesan polenta. Then we had a delicious tour of the hotel, including the new spa near their indoor seascape pool.

Charming. Google and be transported.

LUTETIA HOTEL — QUEEN OF THE LEFT BANK

Dinner at the Paris

DAVID: Just steps around the corner from our Cherche Midi apartment, The Lutetia is our favorite Bank’s only grand hotel rated 4 Stars (Plus!) reflecting the “Belle Époque” and Art Deco periods. The Lutetia Bar has long been my personal favorite in Paris, and I’ve always paid at least one visit to sip champagne and listen to jazz or their wonderful pianist.

We had already lunched in the Lutetia Brasserie, typical but way above most. Jacqueline had her favorite Beef tartare (she has sampled many), and I had the world’s best oysters.

JACKIE: We were fortunate to join the Lutetia’s young, charming International Director of Sales, Marina De Frisching, for dinner in their renowned Paris Restaurant. Before our meal, Marina treated us to a peek at a few of the hotel’s otherworldly suites. Enormous spaces, with some of the best views in Paris, art-filled, full of surprising themes of Africa, Asia, tributes to women, and music. The Arman Suite was decorated by the sculptor Arman himself with the furniture resembling grand musical instruments. One has to see to believe. An entrance to a suite looks like a landing strip, with twinkle lights lining a long hall. Novel, with all the highest technology discretely tucked.

While eagerly heading to sample the cuisine of Michelin Star Chef Philippe Renard, we ogled the spa, the contemporary art, learned of their literary season, new Fumoir, where aficionados enjoy their cigar with a Cuban accent.

DAVID: Our talented young dinner companion travels constantly all over the world to convince clients what we already know: The Lutetia is a very special place indeed. We hope to stay here on our next trip over. But tonight belongs to the dinner and the wines of The Paris. Jackie is enchanted with langoustines surrounded by sea bass, marinated with pink grapefruit, pine nuts and avocado; Marina had a magnificent Brittany lobster; while I indulged Basque rack of pork with black truffle potatoes, and girolle mushrooms, and then dessert! A “chocolate experience” and a fruit fascination served in a mystic haze of (the fantasy of dry ice). Again, turn to the internet to taste the allure of this, “if the walls could talk” Hotel Lutetia in Paris.

We’ll Travel….

[Editor’s Note: This edition of “Travel with Lawrence and Lawrence” was originally intended to run on Sept. 28, but due to space issues and forgetfulness, it never saw the light of day. Here it is, straight from the vault of The Tolucan Times. As they say in Paris, better late than never!]

Hotel de Crillon, Paris

Chef Christopher Hache brings his star power to the glow of the shining Les Ambassadeurs Restaurant at Hotel de Crillon.

DAVID: Paris, the city of lights, is also the city of palaces. Some have become museums, some private homes and some fabulous hotels, like The Crillon, recently Awarded “Best City Hotel in the World 2011.” But first, a word about our own palace, our happy home in Paris. Our “palace” for three glorious weeks is on the Rue Cherche Midi on our favorite Left Bank surrounded by marvelous cafes, shops and the elegant Bon Marche department store. The apartment is owned by Porter Scott, an American in Paris, who has a successful business managing and renting lovely places to stay in this city on the Seine. We lovingly recommend his I Love Paris website if you want to live like a native with all the conveniences of home.

JACKIE: Back to the Crillon, it was the palace owned by continuing Comtes of the same name who lived there from 1788 until 1907. It then became one of the most important hotels in Paris. It reigns over the Place de la Concorde with the Obelisk of Luxor dating from the eighth century BC and its glorious fountains and proximity to the Tuileries gardens, the Louvre, the Champs Elysees and the epitome of fashion and chic, gracing the Right Bank shops, of the great designers on the Rue du Fauborg Saint Honore.

The restaurant of the Crillon is Les Ambassadeurs, the home of the new and talented (as he is young and handsome) Chef, Christopher Hache. He is responsible for a fresh and exciting and more affordable menu, plus their first Michelin Star.

DAVID: This is the restaurant of your dreams, once the ballroom of the Counts and still the style of royalty. The décor is Louis XV (and he was no slouch when it came to elegance). There are five varieties of marble, crystal chandeliers and lovely frescoes on the ceilings. The cuisine has a lot of competition with the look. But it still wins the night! We started our winning night with lovely Billecart-Salmon Brut Rose Champagne. First of a parade of excellent wines selected by The Chief Sommelier, Jerome Moreau.

JACKIE: Pierre Jung, the enthusiastic and charming Director of Les Ambassadeurs restaurant, helped select our delicious and inventive menu and after dinner joined us for conversation that shed light on the excellence we enjoyed. The young leaders, from the staff out front and the kitchen staff, are good friends and work together, to make perfection of the whole experience. And they appreciate the kindness and considerate nature of the new owner, an eminent Saudi Prince, who is revitalizing the hotel, bringing it back to its original glory, but with ecology and technology to serve the community at large.

Delightful dessert of cotton candy and creativity.

I also must personally thank Pierre for allowing us to abandon our senses and bring us masterpiece desserts by the wonderful and whimsical Pastry Chef, Jerome Chaucesse. Picture chocolate with a secret tunnel filled with ice cream, lucky David. I almost shrieked with glee when I was served the pink cotton candy, over a structural cookie that held verbena sorbet, over sensual syrup filled with fresh peach slices. Like something out of Dr. Seuss, the truly most fantastical dessert I’ve ever had.

DAVID: So we leave Les Ambassadeurs with dreams of Chef surprises including Tempura Mussels, delightful courses of a unique roll of blue lobster from Brittany and mozzarella, Fois Gras of Duck with the teeniest mushrooms in the world, smoked butter (!), perfectly pink rack of lamb wrapped in crispy noodles, eggplant and quinoa, wine, wine, wine, French cheese with joyful jam and nut breads, and then the march of desserts, starting with little wrapped candies that turned out to be tart mint sorbet bits, tantalizing. A memorable and magnificent evening….

If Paris is within your possibilities – go all the way, visit a Palace, The Hotel Crillon and treat yourself to a once in a dream dinner at Les Ambassadeurs.

JJ AND DL: The economy dictates to us all. We arrived, at this palace, not by coach and four, but by bus, an easy, comfortable and safe means of transportation from and to almost any destination in Paris. And for tourists, using the money-saving Metro Card helps make Les Ambassadeurs more affordable. Back to reality, we’ll Travel…

Steak at 21, not just another steak.

JACKIE: We want to Talk about New York surprises — for both of us. I still don’t know how all our family and friends kept the NY trip a secret from David, but they did, and I think he was thrilled.

DAVID: Surprises are for birthdays, anniversaries — almost expected. But when they come out of the blue (Jet Blue), well folks, that is a surprise! My adorable wife (who is always a surprise) knocked my socks off by hi-Jackie-ing me on a flight to New York for two jam-packed, superbly planned weeks: special dinners, wine tastings, seeing friends and many Broadway shows that I was dying to see. More after she gets a word in edgewise…

JACKIE: At my 60th High School Reunion, a dear old friend offered me his apartment at The Phillips Club for two weeks. This perfect arrangement, just across the street from Lincoln Center, was a welcome blessing. As we walked in, Loretta Swit was coming out the revolving door. She lives at the Phillips when in NY, so it was possible for some quality time. During our stay, we enjoyed the bar menu at The Four Seasons, and a splendid lunch at Le Cirque made possible by amazing Internet deals.

DAVID: Hey, it was my surprise, so: Hooray for the Fourth of July fireworks viewed from Larry Storch’s apartment, where we met lovely Celeste Holm. And yippee for house seats to the breathtaking War Horse, Anything Goes, The Normal Heart, Priscilla Queen of the Desert and All’s Well That Ends Well in Central Park.

JACKIE: Then it was my turn for a surprise — a very special dinner at a very big deal, timeless restaurant.

The 21 Club

Lawrence and Lawrence dining under the memorable toys of the 21 Club.

DAVID: In the glory days of television, when every other program was not a reality show or CSI — but was instead Gunsmoke, Dick Van Dyke, Doris Day, Star Trek and an array of musical variety shows, with great stars like Danny Kaye, Fred Astaire, Judy Garland, Dean Martin — programmers were as different as the programs. There were teams consisting of professionals from ad agencies, sponsors and networks who worked with the writers, producers and stars to develop the best possible shows. I was lucky enough to be part of the team as a program supervisor with Procter & Gamble. We gathered at two major places to plan our annual strategy: in Los Angeles at the Bel Air Bar and in New York at The 21 Club, which is still alive, well, and flourishing. My surprise for JJ was a visit to this scene of my youth.

JACKIE: We sat under the fabled toys hanging from the ceiling and ordered rose champagne. I indulged with the famous 21 Caesar salad, chilled jumbo asparagus and perfect “Speakeasy” steak tartare. My fella gorged on a dozen assorted oysters followed by a huge picture perfect filet mignon with wild mushrooms on the side. The gorgeous desserts – “21” yums! The service was impeccable and the atmosphere, something to write home about —

DAVID: — which is what we’re doing. Back in the 1930s, the restaurant that once was a speakeasy attracted the affluent horsey set, including one Jay Van Urk, a top breeder who put his personal stamp on his favorite restaurant by donating the colorful figure of a jockey. It was soon joined by jockeys of other breeders. They became the distinctive symbol of “21” and have decorated the entrance ever since.

JACKIE: The toys that cover the ceiling of the Bar Room have become another major attraction. Donated by sports heroes, heads of major industries (and one by President John F. Kennedy: a model of the PT-109), they include replicas of American products, symbols of our culture and lifestyle. The Bar Room is also a Sports Hall of Fame with the helmets, bats, rackets and skates — stuff of stars like Jack Nicklaus, Chris Evert, Willie Mays and other heroes.

DAVID: All in all, the 21 Club is the perfect Manhattan place to see and to be seen. All while enjoying a sense of times gone by, along with cuisine that rivals the best of today.

JACKIE: Great fun to soak up a little history while mopping up your plate.

We’ll Travel …

Man’s best friend in London’s best bar (The Athenaeum).

JACKIE: We want to Talk about the grand finale of David’s spring in Britain sojourn. He loves this winter-fest so much that he has already booked a return in February 2012. And I, the cold-blooded Californian that I am, will hold down the homestead.

*(SURPRISES FOR DAVID: As I write, we’re preparing to go on a secret holiday of my planning. I’ll be Talking about it in my next Talk column, and just know that the next Lawrence and Lawrence will report on a glorious city in the USA. Shhhhh.)

Here he goes with the good reasons that make him keep coming back to England…

DAVID: The beginning of the end: I boarded the Heathrow Express at the airport and headed for London (fastest, least expensive, best way into the city). Destination: Piccadilly in Mayfair.

My first introduction to the Athenaeum Hotel occurred in 1979 in the bar, all warm and wood and whiskey. More varieties of Scotch than I had known existed. And a rare bottle as a gift if one could work through them all. I never did. But I fell in love with the hotel and became a happy member of its roster of guests, many from Hollywood and from the show business world I was then part of.

I schmoozed with Robert Wagner who was shooting episodes of Hart to Hart, joked with Dick Crenna there to do a TV movie (not mine; I was producing Helen and Teacher, which picked up Helen Keller’s life after The Miracle Worker and starred Mare Winningham and Blythe Danner — whose very young daughter Gwyneth Paltrow visited during our shoot). I loved seeing Natalie Wood, and wished when I grew up that I could be another Steven Spielberg — who was living at the Athenaeum while prepping a movie. I housed my stars in the luxurious Athenaeum apartments around the corner and made the hotel my headquarters in the ensuing years for other movies and miniseries I was producing.

Now, years later, I was back home. By sheer coincidence I was given the very same room I lived in for months at a time each time I was shooting. But — wow — what a difference the years have made! The only thing about Suite 305 that remains the same is the splendid view from my windows of the magnificent Green Park just across the road. Everything else is totally up to date in London City! Tastefully high tech and contemporary with a wall of mirrors framing an enormous flat screen TV and DVD player across from my huge bed with a four-poster frame of Lucite and chrome. The desk faces the floor to ceiling windows viewing the park and behind it, across the room, is a stunning surprise: a mirrored door opens to reveal a maxibar with a drawer containing everything from Grey Goose to peanuts to chips. Another drawer is a fridge stocked with fruit juices, bottled water, soft drinks, candy bars and beers. The last drawer is a freezer with ice cubes and (!) Ben and Jerry’s ice cream. Now, get this: Except for the alcohol, everything is absolutely complimentary — and restocked daily. What a treat, especially for families. Another pleasant surprise was discovering two old friends, John and Tony, members of the staff and still at the Athenaeum all these years later. Just like yours truly. I am grateful to others like Victoria Smalley, P.A. to General Manager Jonathan Critchard, both of whom welcomed me home; Darren Muylders, the admirable Concierge who got me into Hakkasan for lunch with my dear friend John Scott; and Susanne Wedden, who helped me with a special surprise for my sweet Jackie. Now it was time to whip out my Oyster Card (easiest and cheapest way to hop on buses and tubes) and brave the cold and rainy days. I hit all the old familiar places – Piccadilly Circus, Trafalgar Square, The Tate Modern Museum, Royal Academy of Arts, and of course, Harrods (to buy something for the silent auction for Jackie’s then upcoming, now very successful, Actors and Others for Animals event honoring Betty White. Hope you didn’t miss it!).

Back to the warm and dry refuge of the family-owned, Five Star Athenaeum with its gym, sauna and steam room. And its fond, happy memories of another time, another life — no better than the one I’m living, but never to forget.

JACKIE: OK, I’m lucky enough to have experienced this classic hotel and for a change, David is not exaggerating. And, best of all, the Athenaeum is dog friendly!

We’ll Travel…